C3 Race Car Build

johng

CCCUK Member
You're right, that's not looking great. It will be interesting to see what it looks like when it's cleaned up. Hopefully not too much worse.
Looks like yours is worse than mine at the top of the screen but hopefully it's better at the bottom.
 

johng

CCCUK Member
You're probably right, mine only had a strip of foam sealant along the front edge, nothing like yours

IMG_20180129_140357.jpg
 

johng

CCCUK Member
Glad to see you haven't given up yet! I found it easier to take the engine and tank out after I removed the body.
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
The scrap man said as it was mainly fibreglass and filler it wasn’t worth much. :p

I reckon it’d have taken someone longer to put the filler in the screen frame than it would to weld it up. You really couldn’t tell it wasn’t metal.

I figured as it’s going to be a race car I’d get some practice at engine in/out while the bodywork doesn’t matter plus it means I’ve not got to lift the body as high.
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Steering column is out, someone’s cross threaded the steering wheel but so the inner may be scrap. Brake lines to master cylinder disconnected, earths and seatbelt anchor undone and all the body body bolts except the rearmost two removed without any trouble. Last two to come out and then the body will come off.
 

johng

CCCUK Member
Thought you might like to check my list of things to remove in case you missed anything.



Remove:
From Front
Mechanical
Front bumper and frame reinforcements
Unbolt nose support from frame (will stay with body) ??
throttle cable (at carb)
steering rag joint also remove column??column removed
brake lines (at master cylinder)
Radiator
Radiator core support bolts, lower only - Remove
A-Frame dust covers - Remove from under A-arm??
fuel lines
Electrical
Starter wires1 large, 1 small (on connection nearest engine block)
Ground straps (more than one place)one on trans next to starter motor
oil pressure sensor (below distributor)
Alternator wires
small body earth strap at driver's side no.1 body mount
horn
Air con compressor clutch cable and earth
water pump sensor (driver's side engine head)
Speedo cable
spark plug leads so they don't get caught
distributor (2 plugs)
body mount bolts
brake balance switch (under master cylinder)
Vacuum lines
brake booster vacuum hose (intake manifold)
headlight vacuum reservoir (3 pipes)
carb vacuum connection
fuel canister hose (above driver's side splash shield) could be up to 3 hoses
Water hoses
Heater and A/C hoses from motor
water pump outlet to AC unit
AC unit return to intake manifold
From Center
Parking brake cable and brackets from under seat areathere is a spring that goes from the adjustment rod to the crossmember
Shifter cable
Battery ground strap from frame
Rocker moldings
Seat belt anchors, left, right and center - remove??
From Rear
The rear bumper
aerial earth/rear chassis earth (driver's side rear corner)
Gas tank ground and sending unit wire
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Body is off there’s some rot in the front left sill but chassis doesn’t seem too bad apart from some accident damage to the rear body mount.

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johng

CCCUK Member
Still making good progress then. Your chassis looks very much like mine did, when my body came off. Finally managed to get the body back on last week :) .
Have you decided what you are going to do with the birdcage rust yet?
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
That’s great, did it go back on smoothly?

Still undecided, I was intending to shove it into a corner and forget about it for a while! It’s too bad to consider piecemeal repairs so the options are either replace the top and sides with new, which I think is £1000 for the parts or cut it off and go open but I don’t really like open race cars, you get wet!

4054

I’m still pondering engine options too, although not the original it has got a period correct, 4 bolt main 350 which I could rebuild or I have to find a period correct big block.
 

johng

CCCUK Member
Putting it back on was no problem, I had a couple of mates to check that nothing was catching and just lowered it slowly on the block and tackle. When it got close I put a couple of large screwdrivers through the holes in the sills into the frame and they guided it down nicely. Make sure that you free up the captive nuts on the frame first so that you can line them up with the bolts.
I like the look of that open top racer, might not be practical but it looks great.
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Thanks for the tip on the captive nuts.

I’ve found a secondhand 355ci race engine at a reasonable price so going to go the small block route to start with. Which will free up some cash to sort all the body out properly.
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Most of the top of the chassis is now seam welded. Need to pick up some plate to make up a new rear left body mount this week, then I can turn the chassis over to do the underside.

I’ve decided to get it dipped and e coated so it’s booked in for that in January.

Had a little play with the flares tonight.

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