1980 headlamp door

chris-p-duck

CCCUK Member
Hi!
I am new to this forum and have only had my 1980 C3 for 12 months or so so I am still relatively new in this arena. Gotta say though I am loving the whole C3 thing 😃. I have fixed a number of small niggly things but the one thing that I am struggling with the the headlight door adjustment. Both of my headlight doors stand proud when closed (see photo). I can see the adjustment bolt in the mechanism and it is wound fully out and the door won't go any lower and I can't see any way to adjust the whole housing to fix the issue. Am I missing something obvious or is there a clever trick to deal with these headlamp doors? It bugs me every time I look at the front of the car!!

Any advice gratefully received

Thanks in advance

Chris
 

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johng

CCCUK Member
Looks like it is adjusted okay at the rear and just sits up at the front. If it's not the adjustment bolt then you will need to remove the pivot pin and screw the clevis further onto the actuator rod

6310
 

chris-p-duck

CCCUK Member
Thanks Johng. I have had a bash at that this evening and it seems to have helped. It's still a bit proud and the Clovis is screwed as far down the shaft as it will go. Is there any other areas to adjust?

Thanks in advance

Chris
 
M

Martinshort

Guest
Looks like it is adjusted okay at the rear and just sits up at the front. If it's not the adjustment bolt then you will need to remove the pivot pin and screw the clevis further onto the actuator rod

View attachment 6310
The adjustment is nothing to do with the actuator ,there is a bolt on the arms that adjusts high and low
 

johng

CCCUK Member
Chris, you've said that the adjustment bolt is fully wound out. I take it you can see a gap between the end of the bolt and the mechanism when the door is closed. If so, something else is stopping the door closing further. What happens if you leave the actuator disconnected? Does the door then go lower?
 
M

Martinshort

Guest
Chris, you've said that the adjustment bolt is fully wound out. I take it you can see a gap between the end of the bolt and the mechanism when the door is closed. If so, something else is stopping the door closing further. What happens if you leave the actuator disconnected? Does the door then go lower?
See above
 

johng

CCCUK Member
My explanation on how to lower the lid
So assuming Chris is right and the adjustment bolt is not the problem, what else could stop the lid closing fully? I've just rebuilt my headlight mechanisms and had this same problem, the adjustment bolt was not touching anything, so I shortened the actuator rod by screwing the clevis on another turn and the problem was fixed.
 

chris-p-duck

CCCUK Member
Thanks all. I think I have got it fixed. The doors now lower and are flush. The actuator arm seemed to be the restriction. The drivers side adjusted fine (wound Clovis down a bit more), passenger side was a bit more of a challenge. The Clovis would not screw down (locktight'ed in place - christ knows why....) so I spaced the actuator back by 1mm and that has worked a treat.
Appreciate the responses. They no longer bug me everytime I look at them!
Thanks
Chris

lamp door fixed.jpg
 
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