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Brake Calliper Bleed Nipple - Snapped off !?!

langlj00

CCCUK Member
Afternoon all,
Bleeding the brakes at the weekend (which I do each year after the winter layup). Three wheels done OK, got to the front drivers side and whilst undoing the nipple - it snapped rather than undid.
They were all new nipples (about 5 years ago) - and they were put in with copper slip - Ho Hum,

Anyway, it didn't actually loosen, so the car is still OK (went to work yesterday in it).

How to get it out - ?
Anyone else experienced this?
EZout any use (I don't have any) ?

Anyone got a spare front calliper in the heap they don't want?

Thoughts (helpful) - welcome :)
 

kentvette

CCCUK Member
This happened to me a few times some years ago, back in the early 2000's. At that time I asked around and the consensus was that getting the broken end out was going to be almost impossible without damaging the seat (which is where it actually seizes I believe). I confess I didn't try and EZout (which I don't have either). Like yours, it sheared in place, so was fine to drive, which I did for a while, but in the end, I bought new callipers, and went for new O-Ring versions.
 

Roscobbc

CCCUK Chairman
My initial inclination would be to source a series of small drill bits - measure the overall length of a nipple - roll some masking tape around the drill bit at that measurement to indicate depth drilled - using the hole in the nipple as a 'centre' carefully drill in increasing drill diameters without 'bottoming' the drill bit. Just doing that alone could be enough to release the tension in the broken nipple. In between each drilling I'd use a small and sharp edged screwdriver in the drilled hole, tapping anti-clockwise on the broken part to see if it will release. When the drilled hole is larger inserting the sharp (new) screwdriver in at a slight angle and 'digging it in' should give enough of a 'bite' within the nipple to be able to turn it. All that presumes that you haven't used stainless steel bleed nipple! - if you have things will be far more difficult.
 

Custom exotics

Regular user
Hummm only luck we had in this was to drill in then use ezout but remove caliper from car lock in vice and do it once drilled heat the area of caliper with blowtorch then gentle undo this way heat expands caliper a bit and hopfully allows nipple to release without damage to thread or seat
 

langlj00

CCCUK Member
Hummm only luck we had in this was to drill in then use ezout but remove caliper from car lock in vice and do it once drilled heat the area of caliper with blowtorch then gentle undo this way heat expands caliper a bit and hopfully allows nipple to release without damage to thread or seat
Thanks, that was my likely approach - but I'll wait till next winter now!
Cheers all.
 

Alben78

Regular user
Remove caliper from car. Soak affected nipple in your favourite release agent, please not wd40. Auto transmission fluid and acetone (nail varnish remover) is probably the most effective and cheap. Wait a couple of days then easi out or try the tap it round with a small screwdriver. You can do it on the car but on the bench it’s easier to get the release agent to stay on the nipple. Be aware that once the threads in the caliper are damaged in any way then the caliper is effectively scrap and also that some caliper re manufacturers will not accept a core with a broken bleed nipple. Or just buy a new caliper.
 

Kicks on 66

Administrator
Staff member
Removed one from my old '75 by blobbing Mig weld on the nipple and then give it a few whacks with a hammer when hot, build up enough weld to get a set of mole grips on it. The heat and the shock treatment will crack the rust. You could try welding through a nut so you could use a spanner but IIRC it was too small and awkward to get the nut to stick. I did this on the car....;)


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