First time future C3 buyer, looking for information about model year changes, what to look out for etc.

G

Gibbo205

CCCUK Member
Hi there

First all of my apologies if this information is available somewhere.

I am looking for my first Corvette and first classic car, I have always love C3 Corvettes and I am buying for the looks and sound, the performance is less important to me.
I have researched a lot and I am not sure how correct my research is but is it true the later cars weighed quite a bit less than earlier cars and that the final 1982 models because of fuel injection were somewhat more economical.

I would be very greatful for any advice, model year breakdown info and what is a good one to go for please, it will only be driven in the dry and as a odd weekend car, Ideally looking for a car that is more or less spot on, not interested in a major project but am fine with carrying out some work myself.

Any owners here local to Midlands / North West, also any garages in the area to recommend to look after a C3 Vette?

Thanks in adance. :)
 
Rich

Rich

Administrator
A great place to start is to get a copy of the "Corvette Black Book" which has details of the various model changes year by year and option codes.

The Club has a C3 Buyers Guide which is available to all Members. Membership is currently only £10 as we are a part way through our membership, so why not join up? Details on how to join are on the home page.
 
G

Gibbo205

CCCUK Member
Rich said:
A great place to start is to get a copy of the "Corvette Black Book" which has details of the various model changes year by year and option codes.

The Club has a C3 Buyers Guide which is available to all Members. Membership is currently only £10 as we are a part way through our membership, so why not join up? Details on how to join are on the home page.
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I shall do that, where can I get this black book please?
 
Chuffer

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
As the other guys said , there is some good info out there as recommended . 1980 model onwards was 200 lbs lighter than previous models to offset decrease in power due to more stringent US emissions control . This was achieved in part by some thinner body panels and the use of aluminium rear cross member .The run out 1982 model had Throttle Body Fuel Injection .
 
kentvette

kentvette

CCCUK Member
The Black Book is great. But, if you want a readable book, with some great photography, you'd be hard pushed to beat this for the money! I read my copy from cover to cover before we bought our '78....

The Complete Book of Corvette: Amazon.co.uk: Langworth, Richard M.: 9780854296378: Books

Buy The Complete Book of Corvette by Langworth, Richard M. (ISBN: 9780854296378) from Amazon's Book Store. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders.
www.amazon.co.uk

And, Tom Falconer's book is excellent and, in Tom's inimitable style!

Original Corvette 1968-1982: 1968-1982 (Original (Motorbooks International)) : Falconer, Tom, Mann, James: Amazon.co.uk: Books

Buy Original Corvette 1968-1982: 1968-1982 (Original (Motorbooks International)) by Falconer, Tom, Mann, James (ISBN: 9780760308974) from Amazon's Book Store. Free UK delivery on eligible orders.
www.amazon.co.uk

Both are out of print, so second hand looks the way to go......
 
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G

Gibbo205

CCCUK Member
Chuffer said:
As the other guys said , there is some good info out there as recommended . 1980 model onwards was 200 lbs lighter than previous models to offset decrease in power due to more stringent US emissions control . This was achieved in part by some thinner body panels and the use of aluminium rear cross member .The run out 1982 model had Throttle Body Fuel Injection .
Click to expand...

Thank you, that is why I prefer later models as losing weight is always a good thing, it positively impacts the whole car and power can always be added back in.

I have just paid the membership fee here and also ordered the black book from Amazon.

Ideally I want a 1982, but a 1980 onwards be OK, guess the most important factor here is buy on condition.
 
Chuffer

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
Good luck with your search , definitely buy on condition . Stick to the old adage " Buy the best you can afford" then hopefully someone else has spent all the money getting it right . After all , even a 1982 model will soon be 40 years old so all the usual rust areas in chassis and bird cage need close inspection .
 
hurtzcsa

hurtzcsa

CCCUK Member
this is a great book has loads of information got mine on ebay.,it`s only available second hand .it has images of the colours of interior and paint colours for the years
 

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trevbeadle

trevbeadle

CCCUK Member
All I can say is don't let your heart rule your head and look at plenty if you can before you buy !....however much you pay you WILL end up finding you need to spend more money on it to bring it up to YOUR requirements, so be careful with your budget! After all, anything after 40+ years will need a little TLC. On the other hand there is a wealth of knowledge and help within the Club, you only have to ask..Good luck.
 
Roscobbc

Roscobbc

Moderator
A simple 'yardstick' logic when considering which year Vette to search is to remember that the earlier car will be perhaps a little less 'civilised' in terms of comfort and noise etc. Later vehicles tend to be more 'cruiser' based compared with earlier cars. Earlier cars will always have the performance 'edge' over later cars and perhaps will be more fun to drive. Having said that a later car will be far more relaxing on a longer drive. Balance that with the US's emission controls which started to affect all car from 70/71 onwards and where compression ratios reduced from a typical 10-1 to perhaps 7.5-1 with much softer cams for the then newly introduced unleaded fuel. Reality however is that in the 50 odd intervening years many of the 'emission era' Vettes will have had re-built and modified engines, restoring much of that supposed lost power. Truth is that a really nice Vette irrespective of the year is a pleasure to drive whether a lowly 200 hp or modified 400 hp car. Then think about manual or automatic......
 
GCorvette

GCorvette

CCCUK Member
Chuffer said:
Never under estimate how many classic car owners there are out there that have no notion as to what goes on under the bonnet ( hood) or under any other part of the car come to that ! o_O
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I put my hand up, I'm one. 😞
My brother and late father built cars from the ground up, they got the mechanical genes while I got the creative & logistical ones.

I own sports cars because I like to drive them & not work on them, I have never had any interest in working on any vehicle.

This is my constant battle over buying a C3. If it needs a spanner on it every time I go to drive it, it's not for me. 😥

I hope to buy a well maintained one and will also have it well maintained, but apart from the occasional expected hiccup, will that be enough? 🤔

Only one way to find out I guess...
 
antijam

antijam

CCCUK Member
Most C3 Corvettes tend to preserve their good looks, belying their age. Their bodies don't rust and when the paintwork is past its prime a cheap respray will often restore almost showroom appearance. However, the youngest are almost 40 years old and the oldest over 50 and unless they've had a full ( and properly engineered ) restoration, what lurks under that pristine body will be showing evidence of its age. Even owners of well maintained cars will not necessarily have addressed all the parts of the car that are reaching 'end of life'. An unrestored C3 will need at least a schedule of preventative maintenance as well as day to day servicing. I suspect many C3 buyers have been seduced by the striking aesthetics and shiny bodywork at attractive prices only to find the reality of ownership requires more money, a lot of work if they're a diy mechanic, or a lot of time with a specialist garage.
 
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