Front wheel alignment (tracking)

Corvetteville

CCCUK Member
Having looked on line I have found a figure of 1/32inch. This is the difference of the gap between the tyres from front edge to back edge on the front tyres. Does this sound right? I think I've converted this to degrees. If anyone can confirm either measurement, that would be most helpful. Cheers Steve.
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
Having looked on line I have found a figure of 1/32inch. This is the difference of the gap between the tyres from front edge to back edge on the front tyres. Does this sound right? I think I've converted this to degrees. If anyone can confirm either measurement, that would be most helpful. Cheers Steve.
I would agree with 1/32 and by my maths equates to 0.067degrees.
This is across front to rear edges of the tyre, not the wheel rim. That is also total across both wheels -not each wheel.
In the YouTube video above the fella was setting that one wheel at 1/32, and measuring to the fattest part of the tyre (incorrect). If he sets the other wheel the same he’ll have double the amount of toe-in plus a bit extra from not measuring at tyre edges. Thats my understanding.
 

Corvetteville

CCCUK Member
Forrest Gump, Thank you for your reply. Yes the degrees you quote is what I arrived at. I found a calculator online, you have to enter the tyre size as well as it makes a difference. I guess the string method is ok for a basic setup after new parts have been fitted. 1/32 is the total, not each tyre. Anyway the guys doing it have 4 wheel laser setup, so I think it's worth the money. It's not just the wear factor, but the feel of the car as well.
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
Adding extra castor will make the biggest difference to the feel of the steering. Factory spec is very little, aimed at making the steering lighter for low speed manouvering perhaps. I added more castor on mine and it feels so much more planted.
 

Daytona Vette

Well-known user
Wheel alignment such a big subject - every change you make effects the geometry somewhere else, even back to front - think of it like a Rubic's cube - constant re-adjustment till it is all correct, you may need shims back and front, you should have no wear except tyres which should be evenly worn, tyre pressures correct, tank full and take account of the occupant's weight, get it right and you have a lovely handling machine - too many C3s missing out - Oh and you need to be able to weigh the car at each of the four corners.

 
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Corvetteville

CCCUK Member
Hi Barry, you tech knowledge is second to none. A lot better than mine!
My main problems were, a bit heavy at low speed, front end a little bouncy, & 12 yr old tyres! Which as it transpires were indeed " crispy" The car steers, manoeuvres & rides so much better. The nearside wheel had no toe at all & was slightly negative (out). No camber/ castor adjustments have been done, but I'm very happy with it.
 

Daytona Vette

Well-known user
No Steve, I know little of little which equals little squared of nothing!
Heavy - low speed what tyre pressures in the front?
If you are happy with it - enjoy it !
 

Corvetteville

CCCUK Member
No Steve, I know little of little which equals little squared of nothing!
Heavy - low speed what tyre pressures in the front?
If you are happy with it - enjoy it !
Hahahaha, love it, square root of nothing is nothing! LOL πŸ˜‚
Haven't checked yet what tyre pressure. " they" have put in, I normally run 28F, 32R as per label.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
Hi Barry, you tech knowledge is second to none. A lot better than mine!
My main problems were, a bit heavy at low speed, front end a little bouncy, & 12 yr old tyres! Which as it transpires were indeed " crispy" The car steers, manoeuvres & rides so much better. The nearside wheel had no toe at all & was slightly negative (out). No camber/ castor adjustments have been done, but I'm very happy with it.
12 year old tyres :eek: any older than that and they would have been steel bands on a wooden spoked wheel :ROFLMAO: Just ask Gus , he found out the hard way !!!
 
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