Power steering control valve C3

[Makehay]

I am looking to replace my control valve and see the options out there include remanufactured and new. Can anyone advise me the best way to go? I have had bad experiences in the past using newly manufactured parts which have not been made to the same original manufacturer standards. Likewise I have experienced poor standards of rebuilt parts. The difference in price is significant in this case and this would imply newly manufactured is of higher quality but that may not necessarily be the case!

 

[Alben78]

I have experience of the Lonestar rebuild units - twice. The first fitted with no problems but lost the total fill of fluid in a day. Replaced by vendor the second one lasted more than 10 years with no problem until I sold the car. The original valve, presumably the one fitted at build, lasted over 15 years with a rebuild kit fitted just after I bought the car.
Ve

 

[curious bystander]

If you're handy with the "spanners" re-rubbering kits are the cheapest way to go. So you still have your original part.
Did mine about three years ago and seems to be holding out

 

[Corvetteville]

I haven't any experience with the control valve, but having purchased a new AC Delco starter that basically didn't fit properly! Experienced garage, shims everything. So had the original one rebuilt, now perfect So I'd go for rebuilding it. The seals are about £16 a tenth of a new unit. You'll be removing it anyway, & in the the Wilcox video they appear to only use sockets & a large screwdriver.

 

[antijam]

I replaced the power steering valve, ram and pipes with new items from Corvette Kingdom - see here. Not cheap at £700, but no problems since fitting. I am going to overhaul my original valve and ram with the appropriate parts and then offer them for sale. Suit someone who wants a cheaper solution.

 

[curious bystander]

No special tools needed to rebuild the balancing valve - BUT you need to be super methodical.
As you dismantle the unit make a careful note of the parts as they come out and which way round the seals go.
There are quite a few small washers and seals and you don't want to mix anything up when you reassemble

 

[Roscobbc]

New seals are cheap enough to not worry about if they don't do the job (compared with 'new')

 

[Makehay]

I have experience of the Lonestar rebuild units - twice. The first fitted with no problems but lost the total fill of fluid in a day. Replaced by vendor the second one lasted more than 10 years with no problem until I sold the car. The original valve, presumably the one fitted at build, lasted over 15 years with a rebuild kit fitted just after I bought the car.
Ve

 

[Makehay]

Thank you for your comments, I'll take a look at Lonestar.

 

[kentvette]

I went back and forth wondering whether to buy a complete PSCV or rebuild mine. Lots of comments in the US implied a rebuild would be a wast of time, but Bill (Curious Bystander) told me it was relatively simple, if you work carefully, so I opted to re-build. It is exactly as Bill says, relatively straightforward, but you do need to be methodical and very careful. I watched the Wilcox video, but also discovered a step-by-step written guide, which I actually found a little more useful. (I can send it if you want?). The key is to be careful and I suspect that was beyond some of the US owners who found their work failed in a few days! I replaced the hoses and rebuilt the ram at the same time. The ram is very easy, but I have found no accurate re-build info - all imply it's much harder than it actually was!

Given the work needed to replace compared to a rebuild and, the difference in cost, I'd rebuild!

 

[Alben78]

I actually rebuilt mine in situ the first time as I had no means of removing the Valve from the Pitman Arm. It was a bit messy but not a particular problem if I remember correctly. Must say that I did not replace any of the hoses but left that until I replaced the whole thing many years later.

 

[curious bystander]

Anyone looking to rebuild the power steering arm ( ram) - check the condition of the chromed rod. If it's badly pitted it might be more sensible to get a new or reconditioned unit. The pitting will result in continued leaks on full lock and damage to the new seal

 

[Makehay]

I went back and forth wondering whether to buy a complete PSCV or rebuild mine. Lots of comments in the US implied a rebuild would be a wast of time, but Bill (Curious Bystander) told me it was relatively simple, if you work carefully, so I opted to re-build. It is exactly as Bill says, relatively straightforward, but you do need to be methodical and very careful. I watched the Wilcox video, but also discovered a step-by-step written guide, which I actually found a little more useful. (I can send it if you want?). The key is to be careful and I suspect that was beyond some of the US owners who found their work failed in a few days! I replaced the hoses and rebuilt the ram at the same time. The ram is very easy, but I have found no accurate re-build info - all imply it's much harder than it actually was!

Given the work needed to replace compared to a rebuild and, the difference in cost, I'd rebuild!

Thanks, that is vey interesting. I found a UK supplier suggesting you don't want to attempt to rebuild yourself, they would no doubt I rather bought their new unit at just over £300 plus postage! Yes please, if you have some written instructions I would like to have a look and then make a decision how to play it. Were any specialist tools required or would a regular bench and toolbox do the trick?

 

[Alben78]

If I could manage it on the car then a bench re-build should be straight forward. As Kent Vette said as long as you follow the instructions, and there are plenty on the net, then you will have no problems. You just need to make sure all the seals and things are in the correct order and the RIGHT WAY ROUND! If I remember correctly there is one exploded diagram which has one of the seals in the wrong place but maybe that has now been corrected. The biggest problem I had was actually removing the valve from the Pitman Arm. It’s tight under there but a pickle fork released it ok. Not sure how you re-torque it correctly on rebuild but tight will probably be ok. Providing the valve is ok and the bore clean you should have no problems. You will of course have to re centre the valve once back on the car but that is easy, again Google is your best friend. Best of luck!

 

[kentvette]

Thanks, that is vey interesting. I found a UK supplier suggesting you don't want to attempt to rebuild yourself, they would no doubt I rather bought their new unit at just over £300 plus postage! Yes please, if you have some written instructions I would like to have a look and then make a decision how to play it. Were any specialist tools required or would a regular bench and toolbox do the trick?

Hi. OK, I'ii "PM" you some info. A't f couple of different takes on teh instructions, plus if I can find it, a good little video re removal. Don't forget of course, to watch the Wilcox video, although I used that only as a back-up!

 

[curious bystander]

As Alben says, a pickle fork is required. Probably the only "special" tool needed to do the whole job. When you use said pickle fork if I remember correctly, it's better to attack the joint from the passenger side of the car - using a decent size hammer. Remember one blow with a big hammer is worth ten with a little one. That's what my old Dad always said anyway

 

[Knodty]

I’d definitely go with rebuilding it, I ordered a new one from a Chevy dealers parts suppliers about 20 years ago. Fitted it when it arrived and it leaked worse the my old one. Took it apart and found it had a O ring missing. Had to get a rebuild kit and it was fine after that, and is still going strong now.
Kiss of death now I suppose.

 

[Adtheman]

This has today also become of interest to me, ive had my vette in pieces internally doing a full interior rest' and drove it out today to turn it round to get to the drivers side easier and a big puddle of red fluid was on the floor. leaked that badly its now empty. its dripping from the bottom of the power steering valve but could possibly be coming from the top and running down. having spent a small fortune on the interior i really don't want to spend £300 notes on a new valve. £30 odd buys the rebuild kit, gotta be worth a go hasn't it? interesting making sure everything goes back in right place but guys honestly on a scale of 1-10 how hard is it. I have completely done interior to a high standard but never tackled anything like this before.Also do you reckon i should change the hoses as a matter of course.

 

[Alben78]

Not a difficult job but a bit fiddly particularly releasing the valve from the pitman arm as there is not much space available. As I said previously you really need a short pickle fork as there is not enough room to get a puller in place. Otherwise just count the turns to remove the valve from the relay rod and you will probably have to balance the valve on refitting. I think there are some help sheets from Wilcox or other vendors on Google, there must also be something on u tube.
If you hoses are original then probably worth replacing, another job that’s easier with the valve on the bench rather than scrabbling around underneath.

 

[johng]

I agree with Alben, it's not too difficult. I found the Willcox video very helpful and my valve doesn't leak now, although it hasn't had much use yet. Balancing the valve wasn't hard either.