Steering wheel position sensor - 2001 manual coupe

[Bill]

Evening
It looks like I may need to replace a steering wheel position sensor (unless a little additional driving sorts the current one out) as it occasionally trips C1287 and C1288 codes. I've found some good guides showing how to replace these, though it looks like it could be a bit of a pain and there are a few pitfalls!
Before ordering one from the US, I thought I'd check to see if anyone had a spare that they would be willing to sell?
I'm also looking for an oil pressure sensor and possibly a passenger-side air injection check valve, so if anyone has any of these I'd certainly be interested.
Best regards,
Bill

 

[BobbyV8]

Evening
It looks like I may need to replace a steering wheel position sensor (unless a little additional driving sorts the current one out) as it occasionally trips C1287 and C1288 codes. I've found some good guides showing how to replace these, though it looks like it could be a bit of a pain and there are a few pitfalls!
Before ordering one from the US, I thought I'd check to see if anyone had a spare that they would be willing to sell?
I'm also looking for an oil pressure sensor and possibly a passenger-side air injection check valve, so if anyone has any of these I'd certainly be interested.
Best regards,
Bill

Bill
I have the same problem with my steering wheel position sensor. I have purchased a new one from Rock Auto but am debating on whether to fit this myself as there seem to be a few pitfalls on fitting said sensor. Any help or advice would be most welcome
Cheers
Bob

 

[teamzr1]

Evening
It looks like I may need to replace a steering wheel position sensor (unless a little additional driving sorts the current one out) as it occasionally trips C1287 and C1288 codes. I've found some good guides showing how to replace these, though it looks like it could be a bit of a pain and there are a few pitfalls!
Before ordering one from the US, I thought I'd check to see if anyone had a spare that they would be willing to sell?
I'm also looking for an oil pressure sensor and possibly a passenger-side air injection check valve, so if anyone has any of these I'd certainly be interested.
Best regards,
Bill

Before swapping the SWPS, check first that the wiring connector has pulled back and not making good connections to pins of sensor
This sensor is connected to the EBTCM up front, and it could be wiring or connector at that end or, it is cracked solder joints or relay in that controller

As to AIR check valve, you could take it off and soak in a cleaner that would break up the carbon build up
You should be able to blow through from the inlet side that is coming from the driver's side valve but cannot blow through from
the passenger side back to drivers side
If stuck, best is to replace both as driver's side is not any better
are you getting AIR DTCs tripped ?

As to oil pressure sensor, is the gauge reporting from like 30 to 40 PSI ?
Again check wiring and connector to it

If C5 lived in an area of high humidity or rain, could be dirty wring pins, so use a spray cleaner like MAF spray cleaner on both male and female pins

 

[Bill]

Thanks for your advice - I'll have a look at the swps connectors and wiring as a first port of call.
Bobby - one of the best threads I found (so far) if you do decide to replace it is below. It's a long thread, but take a look at post #35 for what seems to be a good description and process. From later posts, it looks like the job is more awkward if you have a telescopic steering wheel. Fingers crossed it's a connector problem!

Any tips on replacing the steering wheel position sensor? - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

C5 Tech - Any tips on replacing the steering wheel position sensor? - I've been seeing DTC codes 1287 and 1288, steering wheel position sensor errors, for several weeks now which disables the active handling. First thing I did was clean the grounds on the front frame rails and reseat the EBCM...

www.corvetteforum.com

The oil reading is pegged to max on the analogue gauge and 130psi on the digital.
The air DIC code is P1416, so the more awkward one to get to... Of course
Thanks again for your reply and will keep posted once I get some time to investigate.
Best regards,
Bill

 

[teamzr1]

Make sure the battery is disconnected to prevent by mistake causing airbag to pop while working under the dash

Could take the left check valve off with hose going to right one to take both off at same time and trying cleaning both first
Would also help with that out of the way to swap the oil pressure sensor or to check the wiring along the firewall

 

[BobbyV8]

Thanks for your advice - I'll have a look at the swps connectors and wiring as a first port of call.
Bobby - one of the best threads I found (so far) if you do decide to replace it is below. It's a long thread, but take a look at post #35 for what seems to be a good description and process. From later posts, it looks like the job is more awkward if you have a telescopic steering wheel. Fingers crossed it's a connector problem!

Any tips on replacing the steering wheel position sensor? - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

C5 Tech - Any tips on replacing the steering wheel position sensor? - I've been seeing DTC codes 1287 and 1288, steering wheel position sensor errors, for several weeks now which disables the active handling. First thing I did was clean the grounds on the front frame rails and reseat the EBCM...

www.corvetteforum.com

The oil reading is pegged to max on the analogue gauge and 130psi on the digital.
The air DIC code is P1416, so the more awkward one to get to... Of course
Thanks again for your reply and will keep posted once I get some time to investigate.
Best regards,
Bill

Thanks Bill
Post 35 is the one I had picked out to follow the instructions on so I'm glad you have picked this out too, just got to pluck up the courage to do it . I did try flushing it out with electrical contact spray but that didn't make too much difference. I will have a look at the connector as the fit seems quite loose and take it from there. Thanks to teamzr1 too

 

[Bill]

Thanks TeamZR1 - I'd seen a note about removing a fuse 16 but disconnecting the battery would be more thorough and I really don't want to see the airbags!

Bobby it sounds like you are a step or two ahead as I've only just taken a look for the connectors. Have you got a picture of the ones that you tried?

 

[BobbyV8]

Thanks TeamZR1 - I'd seen a note about removing a fuse 16 but disconnecting the battery would be more thorough and I really don't want to see the airbags!

Bobby it sounds like you are a step or two ahead as I've only just taken a look for the connectors. Have you got a picture of the ones that you tried?

There's only one connector at the base of the steering column which is attached to the sensor as far as I can see. As teamzr1 said it could be a bad solder joint or relay in the EBTCM but mine only seems to throw codes when the steering wheel is slightly off centre on a right hand bend which then puts the left front brake on which makes me think it is the steering sensor.

 

[teamzr1]

Problems common, but not all the time is there is not enough slack on the wires to sensor and over time
can cause the wire to sag down, pulling back the connector pins not fully connected and also might put some resistance on pins
If the case is, use a tie-wrap to that wiring loom to keep enough slack to the connector mating
Being resistance is used from sensor to the EBTCM, if there is any solder joints issue in it can cause a slight resistance change
and effect what the EBTCM thinks is the angle of the steering wheel

Make sure male and female pins of wiring to the EBTCM is clean and firm connected
Water could splash up and water get into the wiring connector and thus assure pins are clean

You want battery disconnected so when taking wiring connectors at both sensor and EBTCM that no on/off voltage while
working with the connectors

 

[BobbyV8]

Problems common, but not all the time is there is not enough slack on the wires to sensor and over time
can cause the wire to sag down, pulling back the connector pins not fully connected and also might put some resistance on pins
If the case is, use a tie-wrap to that wiring loom to keep enough slack to the connector mating
Being resistance is used from sensor to the EBTCM, if there is any solder joints issue in it can cause a slight resistance change
and effect what the EBTCM thinks is the angle of the steering wheel

Make sure male and female pins of wiring to the EBTCM is clean and firm connected
Water could splash up and water get into the wiring connector and thus assure pins are clean

You want battery disconnected so when taking wiring connectors at both sensor and EBTCM that no on/off voltage while
working with the connectors

Thanks for your help teamzr1 (sorry don't know your name). I will check the easier bits first before I tackle the steering sensor.

 

[teamzr1]

Just another reason to own and often use an OBD-II scanner would make it easier to debug problems like these

 

[plastic orange]

I replaced mine a while ago and found it a pretty straightforward process. Only issue i had was how the aftermarket alarm was fitted (UK import) as I would have had to de solder connections to fully remove column - and I should have worn my specs to see the small bolt heads on the knee protector bracket. If the wires had been attached differently, then it would have come out easily. As it was i had just enough room to turn column, but needed a friend to assist with this. New sensor went on easily and all is good. Probably just a 2 hour job.

Pete

 

[BobbyV8]

I replaced mine a while ago and found it a pretty straightforward process. Only issue i had was how the aftermarket alarm was fitted (UK import) as I would have had to de solder connections to fully remove column - and I should have worn my specs to see the small bolt heads on the knee protector bracket. If the wires had been attached differently, then it would have come out easily. As it was i had just enough room to turn column, but needed a friend to assist with this. New sensor went on easily and all is good. Probably just a 2 hour job.

Pete

Thanks for your input Pete. I think I'll bite the bullet and get on with it. I will update at a later date on outcome

 

[BobbyV8]

Thanks TeamZR1 - I'd seen a note about removing a fuse 16 but disconnecting the battery would be more thorough and I really don't want to see the airbags!

Bobby it sounds like you are a step or two ahead as I've only just taken a look for the connectors. Have you got a picture of the ones that you tried?

Sorry Bill I seem to have hi-jacked your post. I'm going to go ahead and try changing the sensor myself. May have to wait for a clear period as my garage is not big enough to work on the car. I'll keep you posted

 

[Pitre]

I did this job with the help of a friend a few years back and it's a bit of a PITA!
Good video HERE though although do remember to disconnect the battery to stop the risk of the airbags going off and also keep the steering wheel pointing forwards throughout (or at least don't let it spin whilst disconnected!)!
Good luck.

 

[BobbyV8]

I did this job with the help of a friend a few years back and it's a bit of a PITA!
Good video HERE though although do remember to disconnect the battery to stop the risk of the airbags going off and also keep the steering wheel pointing forwards throughout (or at least don't let it spin whilst disconnected!)!
Good luck.

Thanks Peter. I'll be round later with the part

 

[plastic orange]

I used cable ties to hold my steering wheel in position, disconnected the battery and followed an internet guide how to do it. You'll have to turn the steering wheel to access the nut on the column to rack connection after taking off a cover on the inner wheelarch. Return the wheel to straight ahead, then lock it with the cable ties, then follow the guide to access bolts, panels etc. Do not turn column when taking off old part and fitting new. An assistant is useful to guide column back onto the steering shaft.
Good luck with the job, it's not really difficult, but is one that puts folk off. I bought my replacement from rockauto.

Pete

 

[BobbyV8]

I used cable ties to hold my steering wheel in position, disconnected the battery and followed an internet guide how to do it. You'll have to turn the steering wheel to access the nut on the column to rack connection after taking off a cover on the inner wheelarch. Return the wheel to straight ahead, then lock it with the cable ties, then follow the guide to access bolts, panels etc. Do not turn column when taking off old part and fitting new. An assistant is useful to guide column back onto the steering shaft.
Good luck with the job, it's not really difficult, but is one that puts folk off. I bought my replacement from rockauto.

Pete

Thanks Pete

 

[Bill]

Sorry Bill I seem to have hi-jacked your post. I'm going to go ahead and try changing the sensor myself. May have to wait for a clear period as my garage is not big enough to work on the car. I'll keep you posted

Not hijacked... It's great that it has generated some interest and is relevant to more than just me. I think I'm going to check some of the grounding points first as the battery was recently replaced and there were no signs of these codes in the history. If no joy then will give it a go. If you aren't too far from Aldershot then happy to help, with the alterior motive of learning the procedure at the same time

Thanks everyone,
Bill

 

[BobbyV8]

Not hijacked... It's great that it has generated some interest and is relevant to more than just me. I think I'm going to check some of the grounding points first as the battery was recently replaced and there were no signs of these codes in the history. If no joy then will give it a go. If you aren't too far from Aldershot then happy to help, with the alterior motive of learning the procedure at the same time

Thanks everyone,
Bill

Thanks Bill. I'm a bit far from Aldershot, I'm on the North Norfolk coast but thanks for the offer . I'll keep you informed