Code reader?

Fatbloke-Dim

Busy user
Anyone have any experience of a readily available, in the U.K.,code reader/scanner? Or a recommendation for same? Seems it may be of some benefit,seeing as everything is controlled by black magic these days !
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Really depends on what you want to be able to do with an OBD2 scanner which is also a code reader
Entry level would be like this one that many have bought
It comes with an APP that works with an Android cellphone via Bluetooth
This allows seeing in detail how like engine, tranny ABS, etc, is working, reading and clearing error codes
to seeing if the vehicle passes on-board smog tests

Also comes with software that installs on a laptop that is running MS Windows OS, also via Bluetooth
Cost $140 US

Cheaper types in range of $40-100


Costing less than $50

 

Pitre

Chairman, CCCUK.
I use one of these cheapies, works fine on my C5 with Torque app on Android phone...

...however, all codes can be read without any special equipment via the DIC (see Google/YouTube). 👍
 

C5Steve

CCCUK Member
I use one of these cheapies, works fine on my C5 with Torque app on Android phone...

...however, all codes can be read without any special equipment via the DIC (see Google/YouTube). 👍
Yeah I do exactly the same, was going to suggest the DLC but wasn't sure if you could do it on the C6. There's not much else the Bluetooth reader does tbh, I tend to just use the DLC.
 

Fatbloke-Dim

Busy user
Just hgaving a look at these suggestions now. Just want to be able to see what's going on with things, I've had a few non-serious random codes that have disappeared when the battery has been disconnected and connected again. This may be what happens when a car is hardly used and stands with the battery disconnected most of the time. It's an expensive driveway ornament , for sure ! But.....when it does come out to play.........Blimey!! Wot fun !
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
GM yanked out the diagnostics mode from the DIC starting with the C6, to get people to buy the OnStar services to get DTC codes via it
C5 model is the only one having DIC diag mode

Not a good practice in yanking the battery off all the time as that means every time connected again all the controllers
relearns have to be done all over and also the on-board smog tests

Also, the older the electronics get increases the chance when connecting battery again that they quit connecting to the on-board network

Reason why GM sold as an option is a battery tender plugged in when car is parked for days

Also means you're ignoring what the DTCs are telling you and flushing them out on disconnecting to trip again when connected
Should use a code reader or scanner and see what those DTCs are informing you to correct
 

Blackzed

CCCUK Member
I have one of these and also the little plug in OBD ones as well.
I use the little one on the torque app, to record journeys etc.
 

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Fatbloke-Dim

Busy user
Well,
I've ordered one of the El Cheapo ELM ones. if it fails to work , i've lost less than a fiver. TeamZR1;
the option to use a battery tender is a no-go , as the car has to live outside ,in all weathers . I do have a tender , but that means bringing the battery inside , so , back to square one, there, methinks . As for having to re-learn all the parameters again , it's no big deal , and the programmed smog tests are not crucial to us here in the U.K. , when it does get it's annual inspection , the car will have been given a good run out immediately befre said test ,so will be 'all systems go' in that regard. The actual smog part of our test does not involve any hookup to spy on what the electronix are doing , just a gas analyser shoved up it's arse and 'sniffed' 'Ooo er, Missus !!' . It always passes , and with low numbers, like most other late model American cars. Just proves how good American cars are in this respect, been way ahead of this particular game for years.

I agree that parking the car with the battery off likely results in random codes, but if it's something like a misfire , or a knock , or other non-electronix code , I can at least look into things. Anything likely to be a random occurrence will get a look , but if nothing is evident in 'actual reality' , then no drama. I hope. Bear in mind , the owner's handbook states that if the car will be INOP for 25 days or more, to disconnect the battery . Never had any issues doing this on my '93 C4 , either. Just curious to see what may be happening if a code was to become persistent .
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Your C4 only had 3 controllers, so little voltage draw when parked
You C6 has around 17 controllers and draws down battery quicker

One way to solve not connecting and disconnecting battery countless times
I have been testing this all year on my 1993 Caddy

Solar battery tender, which can be located inside or outside the car, mounts with suction cups.

Will not overcharge the battery as only outputs like 13.5 volts, 10 watts and only needs to get direct or indirect sunlight
Can be as easy as plugging into the cigarette lighter or connecting a cable to battery

Cost is only $30 US

SPonHood.jpgsolarcharger.jpg
 

Fatbloke-Dim

Busy user
Yeah , I know about these solar panels, I used one on my boat to keep the batts topped up when the boat was in use. Trouble is, I'm in England, and we are famous for our lack of sunlight , if they ever invent one to work off rain , then that would be a score !! I know they don't necessarily need bright, direct sun , but do need to be angled to rceive as much of whatever light is available face-on , as it were. The spoiler for these, other than the aforementioned, is that tghe car lives under a cover. This also deters the 'scrotes' of the area who ma otherwise find a 'Vette a good target for their attentions. I've had it before with a '57 Fairlane , and noted that when covered , nothing happened. When on view , I had various interferences, ranging from 2 drunks on the roof of it, to meat pies neing deposited into the car , and most else in between ! And no , the cover does not make the car sweat or anything, it breathes, is soft inside , and if treated a few times a year with Fabsil , is pretty well waterproof. After 3 years, the paint is like new, and I had one for 9 years on my C4 with no issues. I did have a .25 Amp parasitic draw on the C4, so kept the batt disconnected for the extended parking periods with no issues.
I agree these solar panels are a good deal , suckered to the inside of the window , out of the weather ,just not great for cover users , though !
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Maybe wire from battery to like front bumper area
Use the cover and mount the solar panel on top of the cover

The one I have is waterproof and even on a cloudy day puts out more voltage than battery so
not in a sense charging a battery but taking a fully charged on and solar panel is maintaining a full charge

I use a remote wireless battery monitor, so I can see the level of battery with the solar panel
where monitor is inside my home
Here is a recent cloudy day, I can see the SoH and SoC showing solar panel output 13.07 volts with battery case temp was 96 F degrees
with a SoC at 97% with car sitting for over 1 week parked

BatteryMonitor.jpg
 

craigyboy

CCCUK Member
Solar panels are pointless you wont get enough amps out of that thing to charge anything.

You can get a tech2 clone or vx diag nano that will need a laptop and a bit of IT knowledge to set it up

Tech2 clone you can buy from Aliexpress I have both
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Solar panels are pointless you wont get enough amps out of that thing to charge anything.

You can get a tech2 clone or vx diag nano that will need a laptop and a bit of IT knowledge to set it up

Tech2 clone you can buy from Aliexpress I have both

Well after 6 months of using this vehicle solar panel in 105 F degree to as low as 30 degrees in a car seldom used with many days total overcast clouds it has fully maintained the battery voltage
You do not need AMPS to maintain, you're thinking of a charger where needing high cold load current
And what I use was designed solely as a battery tender and prevent over 13.5 charging volts and less than 1 amp draw to prevent
overcharging and cooking the battery

Tech-2 or clones of them are not fully OBD scanners, you cannot select like 25 custom PIDs,
go for a 25-mile road test and record 20-40 Fp/s
save it, take that and export it to a P/C and fully analyze that data

Tech-2 and clones to make use of what it does requires paying a monthly fee to GM to have access to updated flashes for controllers and most people using these once in a while do not need that overhead cost or even know how to use that function
Lastly clones I have tested have spy or virus crap installed in laptop that the owner has no clue was done

Try scanning and recording 662 GM PIDs concurrently and seeing this on a Tech-II in real time of via playback of recorded test drives

662pids.jpg
 
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