Sound/Heat insulation

[Roscobbc]

Have any of you guys restoring your Vettes (or other cars) actually used sound/heat insulation matting product like Dynamat, Reflectix, Hushmat or perhaps the paint-on Lizard Skin as an alternative to the typical OEM type thick felt and bitchumen coated stuff.
There are so many alternative names for products that initually seem very similar (and could be wildly different) and everyone you seem to speak with has a differing story.
Some use two products - so one for sound insulation - and a additional one for heat insulation. Any experiences fella's?

 

[TimP]

Have any of you guys restoring your Vettes (or other cars) actually used sound/heat insulation matting product like Dynamat, Reflectix, Hushmat or perhaps the paint-on Lizard Skin as an alternative to the typical OEM type thick felt and bitchumen coated stuff.
There are so many alternative names for products that initually seem very similar (and could be wildly different) and everyone you seem to speak with has a differing story.
Some use two products - so one for sound insulation - and a additional one for heat insulation. Any experiences fella's?

I have used Dodomat for my car. I did quite a bit of research and most users seemed to be favourable. It's cheaper than DynamAt (have to put a capital A otherwise the spell checker makes it dynamite) but looks very similar. I am using one product for sound insulation (by stopping the fibreglass panels and floor drumming) which is a bitumen rubber/aluminium foil composite and another for heat/noise insulation which is more of a foam rubber about 6mm thick.

As I haven't driven the car yet I can't tell whether it is effective or not - will be disappointed if it doesn't because its a lot of work - but it glues well and is easy to work with. I have been creating card templates to get the right shape and then cut out both materials and then stick them in. It does end up quite thick and I know I will have trim in some areas to make sure that carpet etc fits ok but that shouldn't be too hard to do.

I did buy some 'correct' felt pre-cut pieces which were quite expensive (about £90 if I remember rightly) but I could not get them to fit satisfactorily (that may well be a me problem) and ended up going down the diy route instead. If you decide on the 'stock' route and you would like them just let me know.

here are a couple of pix of the sound deadener (silver) and the insulation (black around the transmission tunnel) in my car.

Hope that helps.

Tim

 

[Roscobbc]

Thanks for that info Tim - someone elsewhere had suggested DoDo mat too - shame you can't (not) hear/feel the benefits of what you have done so far. It's really the heat transfer from the engine compartment to the cabin that I want to tackle mainly. Over the years the OEM deadening has deteriorated and made the incredibly hot during the summer months if caught in traffic with the roofs on. I'm always amazed that my fellow club members in their C3's leave their 'T' roofs on all summer - is a small block that much cooler? - fortunately I can remove the roofs and rear window most of the year........but rain is a problem. Thanks for your kind offer re. the felt pieces - I wonder how effective they are compared with the DoDo product?

 

[Steven Smith]

I have got to add some sound deadening and heat shielding once I can finally stop my C4 from leaking!
Found this company online that supplies heat management solutions, it has good reviews.

Home - Funk Motorsport

Supplying Turbo blankets, reflective gold heat tape, header/exhaust wrap & heat Protection products world wide | Funk Motorsport

funkmotorsport.com

 

[teamzr1]

Due to how loud my exhaust is to reduce the sound below 85 Dba

SunplusTrade 50 MIL 50 SQFT​

I used this and works well.
They sell with different thickness versions
Facing the aluminum foil towards the heat helps deflect heat and sound

Amazon.com

 

[TimP]

Thanks for that info Tim - someone elsewhere had suggested DoDo mat too - shame you can't (not) hear/feel the benefits of what you have done so far. It's really the heat transfer from the engine compartment to the cabin that I want to tackle mainly. Over the years the OEM deadening has deteriorated and made the incredibly hot during the summer months if caught in traffic with the roofs on. I'm always amazed that my fellow club members in their C3's leave their 'T' roofs on all summer - is a small block that much cooler? - fortunately I can remove the roofs and rear window most of the year........but rain is a problem. Thanks for your kind offer re. the felt pieces - I wonder how effective they are compared with the DoDo product?

On my C3 there was also an insulation blanket/mat underneath the floor in the transmission tunnel area to prevent heat soak from the exhausts (works if you have the stock pipes presumably, rather than side pipes). Is this relevant to your car and if so is it in good condition? I think this exterior piece will probably have a bigger impact on cabin temperature than the insulation inside the car. Mine definitely needs replacing but I haven't started thinking about this area yet.

 

[Roscobbc]

On my C3 there was also an insulation blanket/mat underneath the floor in the transmission tunnel area to prevent heat soak from the exhausts (works if you have the stock pipes presumably, rather than side pipes). Is this relevant to your car and if so is it in good condition? I think this exterior piece will probably have a bigger impact on cabin temperature than the insulation inside the car. Mine definitely needs replacing but I haven't started thinking about this area yet.

Yes mine had that - not fitting particularly well (presuming it has't disintegreated) and probably best fitted when TX and engine is out of the car.......quite possibly 'doable' with shifter assembly out of the way.....there's also a foam 'stuffing' piece that squeezes inbetween the underside of the transmission tunnel and bellhousing/gearbox 'designed' (supposedly) to block hot air from the engine compartment travelling along under the cabin via the transmission tunnel.

 

[CaptainK]

I'm always amazed that my fellow club members in their C3's leave their 'T' roofs on all summer - is a small block that much cooler?

I have a tiny 327 small block and leave my roofs on during summer. Mostly because I can't fit them in the "boot" when I'm out at shows etc as have other stuff in the "boot".

I don't get that hot, as I recently found out during my recent 4 hour journey to the BMS in 27 degrees heat. I just put the driver's side lever to "close" (pull it toward me) to shut off the vent that is going to my feet, and leave the window open a bit. No real problem..... yes it was warm, but nothing to worry about. I also find with the roof off that the sun beating down on me makes me hotter, and the glare from the sun above me is just distracting. I do still need to fix my rear window though - previous owner in US silicone sealed it in, and I need to dig it out and replace the window seal. Would be nice to be able to remove that during summer.

 

[Roscobbc]

The removeable rear window is one of the nicer features of the early cars - get the roofs off, rear window out and have a nice buffet free drive. Capt? - has your car still got the storage compartment for the rear window tucked-up under the rear deck?

 

[CaptainK]

Capt? - has your car still got the storage compartment for the rear window tucked-up under the rear deck?

Sure does. Though at the rate the cover for it likes to unclip and fall down for no reason, I suspect that having the window in there will make it fall down even more.

 

[Roscobbc]

Sure does. Though at the rate the cover for it likes to unclip and fall down for no reason, I suspect that having the window in there will make it fall down even more.

Probably 'coz the 'shelf' is of a kinda hardboard material, has a hinge/crease point at the rear and you make it 'bow' to release the front edge away from the retaining clip it perhaps can loose its rigidity?.........mine has never lost it's rgidity despite regular use (the rear window storage compartment anyway!)

 

[Corvetteville]

I have got to add some sound deadening and heat shielding once I can finally stop my C4 from leaking!
Found this company online that supplies heat management solutions, it has good reviews.

Home - Funk Motorsport

Supplying Turbo blankets, reflective gold heat tape, header/exhaust wrap & heat Protection products world wide | Funk Motorsport

funkmotorsport.com

Where's the leak? Or is that a stupid question, LOL

 

[Steven Smith]

Where's the leak? Or is that a stupid question, LOL

After months of trying to track it down I think I have finally found it.
Whenever it rains heavily I get a puddle in the passenger footwell, it appears to be getting in where the roof panel sits on the window. After renewing all the weatherstripping it was still leaking.
After putting a piece of plastic over the two seals it has stopped, it was getting in where the two seals meet, running down the inside of the windscreen trim, behind the fuse area and into the footwell.
I shall be out with the hosepipe tomorrow to test my theory.

 

[Corvetteville]

Good luck, I hope you find it. Maybe liquid rubber solution.

 

[Steven Smith]

Good luck, I hope you find it. Maybe liquid rubber solution.

It would be an easy fix if I didn't want to be able to take roof off.
I am sure the new seals are not as good a fit as the originals.

 

[Corvetteville]

Agreed, reproduction items are not so good. I believe original weather seals were rubber but with a foam core, certainly on the C3.
Regarding the rubber solution, you mentioned a gap where two pieces of stripping meet, maybe just a little to fill it in .

 

[CaptainK]

Probably 'coz the 'shelf' is of a kinda hardboard material, has a hinge/crease point at the rear and you make it 'bow' to release the front edge away from the retaining clip it perhaps can loose its rigidity?.........mine has never lost it's rgidity despite regular use (the rear window storage compartment anyway!)

Yeah, I think my problem is that my front retaining clip is out of position so its a bit loose and when driving the shelf just rattles loose and falls down. Its on my to-do list with half a dozen other niggles that I forget about until I drive the car again (not often), and then when I'm back I don't have time and forget to do it later. Its the never ending circle of finding niggles and not fixing them - the trip to British Motor Show reminded me that after driving for a bit, the passenger door rattles a bit from the area where the hidden "reach up to pull door towards you" plastic thing that is only on the 1968 model before they put in a proper internal door handle to close the door with.