Project black hole sun.
- Thread starter Dorsetsteve
- Start date
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Thanks for that. I had the appropriate hose clamp so dealt with that straight away. PCV makes sense.
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
The MAF reports to the PCM the amount of air mass flowing through it, the higher the engine RPMs is the more air mass will be flowing
The PCM looks at that amount and commands what amount of flow needed by the fuel injectors for the correct AFR
Any air leak after the MAF than is unmetered so more air is leaking in and PCM is still going by what the MAF reported
The end result of unmetered airflow is the AFR would be really way too lean and only the O2 sensors would report lean and confuse the PCM
This causes incorrect fueling and lean AFR which causes engine to run poorly so if a slight air leak is a negative to how engine functions
The stock air bridge coupler is not smooth as the engine had slight movement on the motor mounts and that flex type of coupler is designed to handle that movement
A smooth type will work but not as well as stock one and any vendor claiming performance gains for a coupler is FOC
You want zero air leaks from filter to throttle body
The PCM looks at that amount and commands what amount of flow needed by the fuel injectors for the correct AFR
Any air leak after the MAF than is unmetered so more air is leaking in and PCM is still going by what the MAF reported
The end result of unmetered airflow is the AFR would be really way too lean and only the O2 sensors would report lean and confuse the PCM
This causes incorrect fueling and lean AFR which causes engine to run poorly so if a slight air leak is a negative to how engine functions
The stock air bridge coupler is not smooth as the engine had slight movement on the motor mounts and that flex type of coupler is designed to handle that movement
A smooth type will work but not as well as stock one and any vendor claiming performance gains for a coupler is FOC
You want zero air leaks from filter to throttle body
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Very much understood coming from a twin turbo car with over 30ft of induction piping and the MAF at the start! All sorted now and hence why I think it’s wise to sort that pipe before it becomes a problem. Same with the other car, has two of those type joints and the consensus that removing them has no benefit.
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
Due to air leaking, is how long in time/miles it was as the leak would cause real lean AFR and cause PCM to command far more fuel injector flow which would cause more carbon buildup, and you should use a decarb product in oil and gas to help clean out and check spark plugs for carbon buildup, this also would help clean the fuel injector nozzles from carbon
Also with that PCV connector not correct would cause PCV system not venting oil fumes correctly
Also with that PCV connector not correct would cause PCV system not venting oil fumes correctly
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
What would be the best option with this vented consul? The draw by the temperature adjustment is faulty. The cup holder is also damaged. It would seem to me that replacing it complete with a later one that’s not silver/grey would be a sensible option. But where to buy?
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
Me being in the USA, what does The draw by the temperature adjustment is faulty, and where is it located ?
You can buy just the cupholder unit for like $70 US such as
As CaptainK stated you could pop that center console off and paint it to your liking though I would not do a real glossy color as sun will deflect off it and into your eyes
You can buy just the cupholder unit for like $70 US such as
As CaptainK stated you could pop that center console off and paint it to your liking though I would not do a real glossy color as sun will deflect off it and into your eyes
CaptainK
Administrator
I confess I assumed he meant "drawer" (as in a set of drawers - pull out storage shelf type things like in a bedroom cabinet), and then assumed the reference was for the little storage area in the photo immediately above the gear stick and stretching over to the cigarette lighter / 12v power socket. The door for it appears to be hanging down, so maybe the door for it doesn't stay up any more, and thus broken.
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Thanks for the reply guys, it’s both the cup holder as highlighted by teamzr1 and the cigarette lighter door. Assuming that’s all one assembly screwed together, replacing the lot from a breaker would be the most efficient?
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
You might find once you pop that center console trim off and look on its backside that the lighter door
might be just a bracket loose and can fix that
If you have a manual tranny might be a good time with console off to make sure the shifter is correctly aligned
just take a couple of minutes to align if needed
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
A very valid hurdle.
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Last night I tackled the power steering hoses. First proper job in the car I suppose, much of this is notation for myself so apologies if it’s long winded and boring. I bumped it up on some ramps/blocks to give me a bit of space underneath and lift the car higher to work on. It’s pretty tight in the garage with the cars width. Anyway.
Battery out and engine covers removed. Found the pcv pipe from the throttle to valve cover on the passenger side was very loose. Closer inspection an it is split and the end, I fitted a hose clamp and banked this in the to do pile.
The serpentine belt. The automatic tension is a dream and this was quickly removed. Then the alternator was removed, and the intake. I considered getting the rad out but chose not too. The power steering fluid pot comes out nice and easy, two bolts and clip on the feed pipe to the pump. The lower two bolts however are a 1/8th of a turn shuffle out, not much fun. This allowed clear access to the bolts on top the rack. I unbolted the high pressure line from the rack and threaded it all out. I had found a tutorial of a C5 and they suggested unbolting the line from the pump, I don’t think that possible on a C6 with the ABS right in the way. Then it was on to the lower pressure line. A pesky 10mm bolt had to be done from below. I then cleaned up the mess with hand towels, it would appear that I have aftermarket engine mounts, some type of polybush configuration.
Comparing the new lines to old it was obvious that firstly, I had the early style short high pressure hose and secondly that I needed to transpose the clips from the original. Reassembly the reverse of removal, the low pressure line was refitted. This goes on some rather convoluted route across the front cross member that I can only assume is for cooling aid. The high pressure line, I fitted this to the pump on the bench then took it over and had to work out the routing, which is different to what I removed, some Google image searching etc and we were in. Then the worst part, getting that hose connected to the rack again. I had it on and off the car a few times, it just didn’t sit right, eventually like all these things it simply went in like the fuss had been for nothing. Cup of tea and time to reassemble everything. I found an unattached PCV vent port.
Everything is now back together and filled up with fluids. I didn’t start her up as it was 11pm by now. Il check over my work, ensure nothing is catching etc and bleed the rack. I really hope that’s done, I have no desire to go back down there in a hurry. It’s clear though that the PCV system on the car is the area to hit if the fluid loss is resolved.
Battery out and engine covers removed. Found the pcv pipe from the throttle to valve cover on the passenger side was very loose. Closer inspection an it is split and the end, I fitted a hose clamp and banked this in the to do pile.
The serpentine belt. The automatic tension is a dream and this was quickly removed. Then the alternator was removed, and the intake. I considered getting the rad out but chose not too. The power steering fluid pot comes out nice and easy, two bolts and clip on the feed pipe to the pump. The lower two bolts however are a 1/8th of a turn shuffle out, not much fun. This allowed clear access to the bolts on top the rack. I unbolted the high pressure line from the rack and threaded it all out. I had found a tutorial of a C5 and they suggested unbolting the line from the pump, I don’t think that possible on a C6 with the ABS right in the way. Then it was on to the lower pressure line. A pesky 10mm bolt had to be done from below. I then cleaned up the mess with hand towels, it would appear that I have aftermarket engine mounts, some type of polybush configuration.
Comparing the new lines to old it was obvious that firstly, I had the early style short high pressure hose and secondly that I needed to transpose the clips from the original. Reassembly the reverse of removal, the low pressure line was refitted. This goes on some rather convoluted route across the front cross member that I can only assume is for cooling aid. The high pressure line, I fitted this to the pump on the bench then took it over and had to work out the routing, which is different to what I removed, some Google image searching etc and we were in. Then the worst part, getting that hose connected to the rack again. I had it on and off the car a few times, it just didn’t sit right, eventually like all these things it simply went in like the fuss had been for nothing. Cup of tea and time to reassemble everything. I found an unattached PCV vent port.
Everything is now back together and filled up with fluids. I didn’t start her up as it was 11pm by now. Il check over my work, ensure nothing is catching etc and bleed the rack. I really hope that’s done, I have no desire to go back down there in a hurry. It’s clear though that the PCV system on the car is the area to hit if the fluid loss is resolved.