Chevy 350 builders recommendations

Classic1275cc

Regular user
Hello all,

I have my 1981 Chevy 350 out of my C3, stripped to the block, cleaned and ready to be rebuilt so I need to step up my game finding a builder (if not myself, but feel it’s too risky with the money in parts and time involved to have a failure) I intend to go down the stroker route but that shouldn’t matter to any reputable builder

I am based In Peterborough and looking for a local (ish) builder. This side of the county anyway

looking for recommendations, preferably first hand

I spoke to..
WBR Race Engines at the NEC show (Northampton)

On my to contact list so far is
Probuild America (Norwich)
Reel steel (Middlesex) (bit far away)
 

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Roscobbc

Moderator
There are a number of options for you - our Essex rep Andy has just finished building-up a 383 cu in for his '76 C3 (he may have a few tips - there is Peter Knight Racing Services, Daventry - I.C.E Racing at Silverstone - John Sleath Racing at Doncaster - Jeff Bull Racing Engines at Colchester. They all have good reputations - but remember their names (racing engines in the title) it'll cost good money for a good engine. Mine was built by John Sleath.
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
There are a number of options for you - our Essex rep Andy has just finished building-up a 383 cu in for his '76 C3 (he may have a few tips

This is true! I had the same thoughts about wether it was a good idea to tackle a rebuild myself. In the end after talking to a few people that had done it before, I decided to take on the challenge.
Researching and deciding on the engine combo takes time ie heads, cam, pistons etc. I wasn't after building a crazy engine, just a solid street engine with a sensible cam and power band.
I then went to an engine machining shop, Thurstons in Essex. They work on all sorts of engines from agricultural to classic Ferrari. I got them to crack test the block, re-bore it +030 (which you need to do to get to 383cui), deck the block to zero, fit new camshaft bearings and core plugs and gap the rings. I did the engine re-assembly.
I ended up buying just about new everything...you probably won't want to start putting the old sump, pulleys, starter motor etc back onto your shiny new engine.
The internals will obviously all be new as well if you go stroker. The cost does mount up!
Firing up the engine that you've put together for the first time is very rewarding, especially once the stressful cam break-in is over! I'm still running it in at the moment so keeping revs below 4K.
Image 27-10-2019 at 16.24.jpg20190814_191515.jpg
 

Classic1275cc

Regular user
This is true! I had the same thoughts about wether it was a good idea to tackle a rebuild myself. In the end after talking to a few people that had done it before, I decided to take on the challenge.
Researching and deciding on the engine combo takes time ie heads, cam, pistons etc. I wasn't after building a crazy engine, just a solid street engine with a sensible cam and power band.
I then went to an engine machining shop, Thurstons in Essex. They work on all sorts of engines from agricultural to classic Ferrari. I got them to crack test the block, re-bore it +030 (which you need to do to get to 383cui), deck the block to zero, fit new camshaft bearings and core plugs and gap the rings. I did the engine re-assembly.
I ended up buying just about new everything...you probably won't want to start putting the old sump, pulleys, starter motor etc back onto your shiny new engine.
The internals will obviously all be new as well if you go stroker. The cost does mount up!
Firing up the engine that you've put together for the first time is very rewarding, especially once the stressful cam break-in is over! I'm still running it in at the moment so keeping revs below 4K.
View attachment 4100View attachment 4101

Good advice, I am more and more tempted to give it a go myself, what would say you spent on parts all in? I’m weighing up that cost what ever that is, plus the cost of somebody els building it but weighing up the fail safe of having a professional do it on top of that because that in itself has a value
Plus the time scale I could do it I’m sure, but I also want it buttoned up by April

you mentioned you have to go to .30 go the 383 route, why is this? My bores are extremely good and planned to go to .10 to leave as much life in the block as possible. .10 pistons are not as common but are out there

Thanks
Will
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
If you are balancing-up the pro'd and con's of building-up the engine yourself let me run this past you. When looking for a more powerful option for my 427 engined car there were three reasons why I didn't build-up the original and matching numbers engine. 1. parts like pistons and other components are getting scarce. 2. having a later 'seasoned' block sourced and fully machined meant that I could go with a 'stroker' rotating assembly for the same money as stock capacity 3. wanted to keep the original engine 'original'. So I went 489 cu in with a plus 20 thou bore job. 500 cu in would have meant a plus 60 and too marginal for me.
The 4 bolt block was sourced from the engine builder, as was the rotating assembly, cam, lifters and rockers. That way all significant mechanical parts used were not my responsibility. I supplied heads (complete), valve covers, inlet manifold, carb and distributor and paid for full engine machining, assembly and dyno time. And yes I did have a problem later. No.1 big end bearing failed within 1000 miles (two years later!). It went back to the engine builder - he accepted responsibility (bearing in mind it was two years later) and we agreed to split the cost of a new 'rod', shells and a .010" grind to the crank - and I got some extra bhp on the next dyno. That justified my reasoning for not doing the build-up myself......
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
you mentioned you have to go to .30 go the 383 route, why is this? My bores are extremely good and planned to go to .10 to leave as much life in the block as possible. .10 pistons are not as common but are out there

Those extra few thou' on the bore diameter make a difference to the engine's total cubic capacity. If you rebore to +010" you'll get a 379cu in motor.
Have a play on this compression and capacity calculator. If you haven't already, you'll need this to work out what pistons you need and any "decking" to the block.
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
Good advice, I am more and more tempted to give it a go myself, what would say you spent on parts all in?
I've not actually added it up, but I'd say it's worked out similar to the cost of an equivalent ready built motor from Real Steel.
Your costs will depend of what quality level of components you choose ie forged or hyper pistons, forged or cast crank etc. That carries on with every part right up to the rocker covers.... $30 or $300 cast aluminium jobs!
I've kept my components sensible, not budget but not race-quality price either.

Regarding doing the assembly yourself or not, I'd say theres nothing majorly difficult about it. Getting the motor out of the car then back in is probably more difficult. If you start reading too much on the 'net you'll scare yourself half to death. In reality you buy a complete rotating assembly and carefully bolt it all in! Remember how these motors are built in the factory.

I have to mention and thank my good friend Tony who gave me lots of advice and encouragement. He gave me a reality check now and again when I was worrying too much!
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
Regarding doing the assembly yourself or not, I'd say theres nothing majorly difficult about it. Getting the motor out of the car then back in is probably more difficult. If you start reading too much on the 'net you'll scare yourself half to death. In reality you buy a complete rotating assembly and carefully bolt it all in! Remember how these motors are built in the factory.

I'm talking about a straightforward re-assembly here, and don't want to confuse that with the skills and knowledge of Professional Engine Builders. As well as assembling engines, they have various techniques and tricks to increase performance ie porting heads, port matching etc. If they have a dyno they'll break-in the cam for you too.
 
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