Crossmember kit

[Mad4slalom]

After about 10 days my MDL
Gearbox crossmember flange kit arrived today $240 landed , no extra duty st this end which was a pleasant surprise. Will cut it out and weld flanges in when I pull the box to make the whole job easier . Got to make life less hassle in the future if clutch or box issues present themselves.

 

[antijam]

Are you going to remove the body to fit it or try welding it in with the body on? Access for welding the flanges all the way round is very limited with the body on.

 

[Mad4slalom]

Are you going to remove the body to fit it or try welding it in with the body on? Access for welding the flanges all the way round is very limited with the body on.

 

[Mad4slalom]

Hi antijam, no , I wont be taking body off,I read a few posts where people have done it with body on and it is s bit tight. However even if you cant get to the top very easily you can weld it from the inside of the cut edge, the metal is only about 4mm thick so you will still get pretty good penetration and then fully weld the other three sides , it wont be going anywhere. When you think the vette frames were not fully seam welded. I have had a pretty good look under mine and my crossmember isnt tight up to the floor like some are, so I will be able to slide some ali and some asbestos mat between it and the crossmember to dissipate the heat. The section that is cut out, once the flanges are tacked in situ can be fully welded off the car. While that piece is out you then have good access to the flanges that fit on the two remaining stubs of the crossmember. I think it all looks doable. My plan is to remove propshaft and exhausts then block up and support the trans in its original position , then cut out the crossmember , do the prep and the welding, then pull the box to do the missing bolt and get the whole box rebuilt while its out. I have a new clutch kit, flywheel, mainshaft bearing support and seal, bolts, locking tabs. And I think i will buy a new yoke to fit whenI fit the rear bush and seal. Going to be an exciting and satisfying job, with probably a bit of swearing but hopefully not as much as working the box out aroun the fixed member

 

[Oneball]

Consider where you are going to support the car while youre under there. Using the 4 jacking positions leads to an awful lot of flex in the chassis with the engine hanging out way over the front.

 

[Mad4slalom]

Consider where you are going to support the car while youre under there. Using the 4 jacking positions leads to an awful lot of flex in the chassis with the engine hanging out way over the front.

 

[Mad4slalom]

Havent worked out exactly yet the best way. I may build stands under the wheels at just the right height so its not hanging on the chassis rails . I did this with scaffold plank when I wanted it up 8 inches but level , just enough room to get underneath on a creeper. I reckon 12 inches would be enough to comfortably lower the box out onto yr chest.

 

[Mad4slalom]

Havent worked out exactly yet the best way. I may build stands under the wheels at just the right height so its not hanging on the chassis rails . I did this with scaffold plank when I wanted it up 8 inches but level , just enough room to get underneath on a creeper. I reckon 12 inches would be enough to comfortably lower the box out onto yr chest.

I have these two options as well so will figure it out somehow

 

[antijam]

Hi antijam, no , I wont be taking body off,I read a few posts where people have done it with body on and it is s bit tight. However even if you cant get to the top very easily you can weld it from the inside of the cut edge, the metal is only about 4mm thick so you will still get pretty good penetration and then fully weld the other three sides , it wont be going anywhere. When you think the vette frames were not fully seam welded. I have had a pretty good look under mine and my crossmember isnt tight up to the floor like some are, so I will be able to slide some ali and some asbestos mat between it and the crossmember to dissipate the heat. The section that is cut out, once the flanges are tacked in situ can be fully welded off the car. While that piece is out you then have good access to the flanges that fit on the two remaining stubs of the crossmember. I think it all looks doable. My plan is to remove propshaft and exhausts then block up and support the trans in its original position , then cut out the crossmember , do the prep and the welding, then pull the box to do the missing bolt and get the whole box rebuilt while its out. I have a new clutch kit, flywheel, mainshaft bearing support and seal, bolts, locking tabs. And I think i will buy a new yoke to fit whenI fit the rear bush and seal. Going to be an exciting and satisfying job, with probably a bit of swearing but hopefully not as much as working the box out aroun the fixed member

Keep us updated.