Headers

Dellb

CCCUK Member
Hi All
Has anyone out there found a set of headers that
a. Don’t fry the starter,
b. Allow the oil filter to be removed without header removal.
I am getting a bit fed up with b.

Delb
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
The ones I’ve seen clear the oil filter ok. Ive got Doug’s Headers side pipe ones and there’s no issue at all with changing the filter.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Hooker Super Comps. However there may be other issues like ground clearance.
Hedman didn't have ground clearance issues - but were very close to floor pan - led to a warm foot......
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
Ceramic coated headers will help with the heat issue. So will a mini-starter, if you currently have a stock one.
I have coated “Flowmaster“ headers that fit well (and miss the clutch bar on my manual ‘box car). Filter access fine.
 
Last edited:

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
Admittedly I don`t have headers although seriously thinking about it , but this a shot of my mini starter and the amount of space it frees up .DSCF2584.JPG
 

antijam

CCCUK Member
If we're talking small block I have these on my'71.....

Both.JPG

I don't know their provenance (anyone recognise them?) but no problem with the filter or the manual transmission cross bar. The RH does run close to the starter but so far hasn't cooked it.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
I am seriously tempted to have them fitted on mine but don`t fancy the grief of getting the rusted up studs undone on my old cast iron manifolds . I might have a word with guys at Wlliams Brothers Racing and see how many ££££££ `s
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
I am seriously tempted to have them fitted on mine but don`t fancy the grief of getting the rusted up studs undone on my old cast iron manifolds . I might have a word with guys at Wlliams Brothers Racing and see how many ££££££ `s
Can they make up / bend exhaust pipe? If you are swapping a manifold for headers you’ll need a short section of pipe made up to connect the collector to existing system. I’ve heard some of the exhaust fabricators prefer the customer to source their own headers….they’re wised up to the potential “fit” issues that are part and parcel of headers and our cars.
 

Adtheman

CCCUK Member
Hi All
Has anyone out there found a set of headers that
a. Don’t fry the starter,
b. Allow the oil filter to be removed without header removal.
I am getting a bit fed up with b.

Delb
Hi, I have these on my car, they are the best by none.
56-82 PATRIOT TIGHT TUCK HEADERS - 283 / 327 / 350 - CERAMIC COATED :: Corvette Kingdom
I replaced the starter on mine for a smaller high torque one.
I bought the rest of the system with magnaflow boxes too
80-81 DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH HEADERS AND MAGNAFLOW MUFFLERS :: Corvette Kingdom
I’m sure there are other suppliers for these parts I only posted as you can see exactly what you are getting. If you want photos of them on the car PM me
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
I've seen exhaust tubes and headers that have been 'wrapped' - not good news for infrequently used vehicles as the cloth can absorb moisture and help to rust-out header and exhaust tubing. Ceramic coated headers keep surface temperature down and minimise corrosion. Never 'wrap' ceramic coated headers - they will overheat and degrade the coating.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
I have heard that school of thought but car is kept in a dry and well ventilated environment and when I do drive it it is always for a good run and it`s always hot when it goes back to the workshop which is 10 miles from home . I decided to wrap the tubes when I fitted the high torque mini starter as old original starter was suffering from heat soak and failing to turn over . I applied the wrap as additional protection as well as reducing heat coming up through the footwells . Only the short front sections are wrapped .
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
I've seen exhaust tubes and headers that have been 'wrapped' - not good news for infrequently used vehicles as the cloth can absorb moisture and help to rust-out header and exhaust tubing. Ceramic coated headers keep surface temperature down and minimise corrosion. Never 'wrap' ceramic coated headers - they will overheat and degrade the coating.
How does ceramic coating compare to wrapping in terms of keeping the heat in?
Obviously another advantage of coated is that they don’t rust and look the business.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
How does ceramic coating compare to wrapping in terms of keeping the heat in?
Obviously another advantage of coated is that they don’t rust and look the business.
My understanding is that ceramic cpating is comparable. We know about the corrosion and appearance benefits - there is also the sound benefit too - reduced transmission of noise - specifically that header 'pinging' sound you'll hear often when next to a wall or standing beside the hood.
 

FIVE RED

CCCUK Member
When I had the '77 I fitted some from Summit Racing. No issues re fitting, starter, or filter. Basic paint finish ready for something more substantial but were well made & so much cheaper than the 'name' brands. This is what they're showing at the moment:
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Wrapping is a bad idea as over time will degrade the exhaust and cost fueling issues
I get guys with Corvettes who contact me where their Corvette engine is running poorly
One reason is being talked into wrapping their exhaust system like the headers that developed cracked welds
which in newer Corvettes that have O2 Sensors those cracks cause air to be sucked in and that excess air affects
what the O2s report to the PCM which cause incorrect fuel AFR to be incorrect

Welds are thicker than the pipes are, wrapping causes in part different heat changes as the welds will get hotter than the thinner pipe does.
This causes different rate of contractions where pipe changes more than the thicker welds do

Mild steel will output more heat than if using stainless steel, so some wrapping maybe needed by starter or better is use a heat blanket for starter
Stainless steel has a memory, it wants to return to its original shape when made and that is flat
Wrapping then with the thicker weld when contracting as it cools will cause the welds to crack and pop off the piping.

Already mentioned is wrapping will cause rusting and looks like this
craplgheader.jpg

Wrapping causes welds to crack like this mild steel

tpiscrap.jpgtpis.jpg

As mentioned when vehicle has O2 sensors, they function depending on the exhaust gases temperature
Cracks allowing air in then fool the O2s and report the AFR incorrectly and the engines PCM then is reacting
causing it to command the fuel injectors incorrectly and engine ends up running too lean, causing engine knock and misfires
which PCM yanks timing and loss of torque.

May end up having to install larger fuel injectors to correct O2s lying about AFR due to those leaks

I would not wrap stainless steel and limit wrapping for mild steel

Also, suggestion is to make more torque gains is installing an X-Pipe right off the collectors as this will increase then exhaust pulses and help pull out exhaust of cylinders, so next firing of cylinder will be a cleaner charge and go with larger diameter of exhaust pipe,

Older C3 pipe is too small as apposed to my 1999 C5 I use 3 inches from collector all the way to muffler tips (3 inches inlet, outlets of mufflers)
Though that maybe too large for your engine but go a bit larger than what yours have

So in short, spend a bit more money for stainless steel for headers due to the amount of welds it has, and also it does not transmit heat out as much as mild steel and do not wrap them
If using mild steel, since they crack welds more than, try wrapping starter and using a heat reflector material under floor by center console
Install X-pipe off collectors
And best case if no fuel injectors then may have to adjust the carb or swap jets to adust the AFR
 
Last edited:

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
I am sure I read somewhere when this subject came up on Forum long time back ,that wrapping the starter was a real no no ! I still have cast iron manifolds and have not wrapped them , I only wrapped the section of mild steel exhaust on both sides where passing starter and below both footwells , so not gonna worry about it .
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Insulation of items like starter motors can actually work two ways. Yes, wrapping the starter motor with a proprietory product will help reduce the amount of heat being absorbed by the starter. My big block has always been affected. Fortunately if it fails to start due to heat soak I normally only need to wait a couple of minutes and provided the battery is good it will generally start. The other unwanted effect is that insulation works two ways - yes it will help 'reflect' some of the engine and exhaust heat away........but also it will tend to prevent the starter cooling down as any heat that has 'got through' will not escape so easily, allowing the starter to cool down quick enough.
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
There are now thin heat reflector shields that tend to work better and prevent starter heat soak
or build a then metal plate between starter and header where airspace on starter side helps

startheat.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top