Spark Plugs for 1968 327

[CaptainK]

AFR Eliminator with Magnum 270 cam

Quick look on the internets to see how much they are, and needless to say I'll be saving for a bit longer . So many head choices with the various CC versions - 185, 195, etc.... though looking at the names, anything more than 195 is labelled as "race". So probably not for me. Mine is more "my car was labelled as 300(gross)hp when new, and I want it to have at least 300(net)hp now, and be nicely streetable".

 

[CaptainK]

If in doubt, take one spark plug out and look at the head where the plug installs
If the surface is flat than not seated ,and if the surface shows tamper than for tapered type

I'm hoping to pull a plug sometime soon - just waiting for my new plug removal tool to arrive, and also some spare time when not looking after a baby etc.

 

[Roscobbc]

Quick look on the internets to see how much they are, and needless to say I'll be saving for a bit longer . So many head choices with the various CC versions - 185, 195, etc.... though looking at the names, anything more than 195 is labelled as "race". So probably not for me. Mine is more "my car was labelled as 300(gross)hp when new, and I want it to have at least 300(net)hp now, and be nicely streetable".

Careful selection of your cylinder heads can make all the differerence in power and, more importantly 'streetability', and surprisingly perhaps economy (lets say 'relative' economy). You'll select the carb, the inlet manifold, headers and cam to hopefully suit the characteristics of the heads .........but that key selection is the cylinder head, its where the best money is spent.

 

[CaptainK]

but that key selection is the cylinder head, its where the best money is spent.

Yeah, I was looking around on the internet and its just overwhelming as I have no idea. Fortunately, I also have limited money for these kinds of things so I'll be leaving it for a while.
In an ideal word, I'd like <whatever heads> fitted with a nice multi-injection system like the pro-flow 4, and be running a nice streetable engine running 300hp - I'm not looking for a max revs monster, as I have one of those in the form of the 8k+ FTO. But something that pulls well from idle. I'm not greedy, I just want my engine to run at least the 300(gross)hp it was rated at - but in more modern 300(net)hp instead .

I might see if I can find some local engine builders and see what they suggest.

 

[Roscobbc]

For 'street' applications (and performance too) a 'revbox' isn't the best way forward anyway - mine makes all its real power between 3000 and 5800 rpm....yet is really very tractable with good street manners between 1500 and 2500 rpm.......typical street usuage. For real indication of usable power always follow the engne torque curve.

 

[Forrest Gump]

Yeah, I was looking around on the internet and its just overwhelming as I have no idea. Fortunately, I also have limited money for these kinds of things so I'll be leaving it for a while.
In an ideal word, I'd like <whatever heads> fitted with a nice multi-injection system like the pro-flow 4, and be running a nice streetable engine running 300hp - I'm not looking for a max revs monster, as I have one of those in the form of the 8k+ FTO. But something that pulls well from idle. I'm not greedy, I just want my engine to run at least the 300(gross)hp it was rated at - but in more modern 300(net)hp instead .

I might see if I can find some local engine builders and see what they suggest.

I think you said you’ve got a 3.08 diff, (same as I have) which is a good thing with the 4 speed manual to stop the engine buzzing so much. The trade off is a 3.08 kills acceleration a bit, so you really do want good low and mid range torque from the motor to compensate. That’s why I went stroker and kept to a sensible cam.

 

[CaptainK]

Yeah, I would be going for a sensible cam too.

Had a look at the plugs last night - my spark plug tools won't get them out as can't get them on. Urgh. If anyone has any suggestions on a plug tool to use that can get in there, that'd be great. I have headers though, so might make it harder.

However, I can see markings on the plugs when a lead is removed - BPR5FS - which is an NGK plug it seems. But they also have a few variants it seems from my quick search - e.g. "-11", "-15" etc. Handily though, it seems they are quite cheap in bulk on Ebay etc. I'll see if I can find other markings on some of the other plugs to better identify which one, otherwise I'll probably go for "-11" as it seems to be the most common.

 

[CaptainK]

For 'street' applications (and performance too) a 'revbox' isn't the best way forward anyway - mine makes all its real power between 3000 and 5800 rpm....yet is really very tractable with good street manners between 1500 and 2500 rpm.......typical street usuage. For real indication of usable power always follow the engne torque curve.

Agreed. From memory, when I had my 327 tuned a bit on a rolling road, the bhp may have been down a tiny bit to around 250bhp ish. But the torque was almost a flat line from idle up to max - around 280 - 300 Lbs/ft. It certainly does pull well from low revs for a "small" engine capacity and 3:08 gears.

 

[CaptainK]

You know, I took my Vette out for a blast around the roads near me, mostly small roads and some B roads. I'd forgotten how nippy and fun it actually is (not driven for awhile as I've been slowly tinkering with it).
I really don't think I need that much more power in it as then I'd have to drive it a bit more carefully - at the moment I can gun it everywhere and not worry about it getting out of line.

 

[Roscobbc]

Those plugs could possibly be the resistor version of what I'm using......albeit a couple of numbers 'hotter' in heat range terms.........BPR5FS........is that FS or ES

 

[teamzr1]

You know, I took my Vette out for a blast around the roads near me, mostly small roads and some B roads. I'd forgotten how nippy and fun it actually is (not driven for awhile as I've been slowly tinkering with it).
I really don't think I need that much more power in it as then I'd have to drive it a bit more carefully - at the moment I can gun it everywhere and not worry about it getting out of line.

Never have enough power

I have been custom tuning this week, a 2013 Z06
LS7 had internal changes, custom CAM, headers, no CATS, higher flowing intake manifold, went from 40 lb/hr fuel injectors to 75 lb/hr
because has been converted to use E85 gas

He is racing all this holiday weekend and just sent me the recorded OBD2 scanner data of one track session for me to analyze

155 MPH per lab
Notice the HP and Tq gains
He also has a 2008 Z06 they also have at track and even with a custom CAM is running at least 15 MPH slower

 

[CaptainK]

Those plugs could possibly be the resistor version of what I'm using......albeit a couple of numbers 'hotter' in heat range terms.........BPR5FS........is that FS or ES

It looks like it says "FS" on the plug that is handily facing upwards that I checked. I can check other plugs in case a bit of it has worn off from "ES" to become "FS", but unlikely as the text was very clear and sharp.