Steering Idler Arm Query

[Jimbo64]

MoT advisory on steering idler arm resulted in me purchasing a new one, with grease nipples.
Given that maintenance manual states just to keep wheels off ground, keep them straight and then a simple unbolt and replace unit, quite happy to do this myself.
Old unit came out easy enough, few taps to get tapered portion out. Tried to fit new one and wasn't fitting at all well. Check of old against new, showed old's arm to bodywork, at an angle, not straight like new one, albeit this is the part that had the movement in the bush that Tester recorded as advisory. The base of this arm on old one also very flat, almost concave, allowing better fitment at chassis. New one's casting is far more convex. See photos to clarify what I mean.
So my queries are this;
1. Should I fit new arm as is, or try and move top arm?
2. Should I grind convex part of arm to allow fitment?
Or maybe I should just call in a friend and utilise a second pair of hands to assist with fitment and this will prevent any of the above?
Cheers, Jim G

 

[Martinshort]

MoT advisory on steering idler arm resulted in me purchasing a new one, with grease nipples.
Given that maintenance manual states just to keep wheels off ground, keep them straight and then a simple unbolt and replace unit, quite happy to do this myself.
Old unit came out easy enough, few taps to get tapered portion out. Tried to fit new one and wasn't fitting at all well. Check of old against new, showed old's arm to bodywork, at an angle, not straight like new one, albeit this is the part that had the movement in the bush that Tester recorded as advisory. The base of this arm on old one also very flat, almost concave, allowing better fitment at chassis. New one's casting is far more convex. See photos to clarify what I mean.
So my queries are this;
1. Should I fit new arm as is, or try and move top arm?
2. Should I grind convex part of arm to allow fitment?
Or maybe I should just call in a friend and utilise a second pair of hands to assist with fitment and this will prevent any of the above?
Cheers, Jim GView attachment 3963View attachment 3963View attachment 3964View attachment 3965View attachment 3966

Just twist the flat side to fit

 

[Jimbo64]

Cheers for advice. Actually sussed that mounting arm needs to be at 90 deg to idler arm and all went together well after that. Sadly pouring with rain here tonight and forecast crap tomorrow too, but hopefully will get a tentative test drive in private back lane first very soon, but with engine running, power steering etc seems to work fine and wheels remaining straight.

 

[Jimbo64]

Just a thought, but maybe suppliers should advise purchasers that mounting arm requires to be rotated a further 45 degs from how it arrives (easier for packaging up and posting ?) Rather than us studying the rather small steering diagrams in manuals or parts suppliers catalogues. But maybe such jobs are supposed to be for the fully in the know mechanics!!

 

[kentvette]

Just a thought, but maybe suppliers should advise purchasers that mounting arm requires to be rotated a further 45 degs from how it arrives (easier for packaging up and posting ?) Rather than us studying the rather small steering diagrams in manuals or parts suppliers catalogues. But maybe such jobs are supposed to be for the fully in the know mechanics!!

With respect to our US cousins (sorry Norm!) I remember when we were thinking about buying our car back in 1990, Tom Falconer reminded us that they were built for Americans so need to be tough and over engineered! I've discovered that there is often an element of "brute force" necessary when doing work on parts of the car! I haven't changed an idler, but seeing your photos and now your fitting explanation, it clearly fits into that bracket - if it doesn't want to fit, but should, make it do so!

 

[Jimbo64]

With respect to our US cousins (sorry Norm!) I remember when we were thinking about buying our car back in 1990, Tom Falconer reminded us that they were built for Americans so need to be tough and over engineered! I've discovered that there is often an element of "brute force" necessary when doing work on parts of the car! I haven't changed an idler, but seeing your photos and now your fitting explanation, it clearly fits into that bracket - if it doesn't want to fit, but should, make it do so!

Agree with you on that, some very sturdy aka thick bracketry and bolts used for the idler arm, certainly not going anywhere anytime soon! Got a quick test drive on Sunday and all appears fine.
Next jobs, some electronic ignition, coil and weather seal kit, to be fitted during winter lay up time.