Project black hole sun.
- Thread starter Dorsetsteve
- Start date
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
I did consider popping them into the gill but thought it gave better visibility to other road users being surface mounted, I even toyed with them being on top the gill for the same reason as per the U.K./European spec. Settled on the halfway point and went in the rebate.
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
I can’t recall if I’ve asked but has anyone got a recommendation of an OBD2 scanner to read the codes? I’m getting “Service Active Handling” fault. Which could be one of a number of things but without the ability to scan the ECU il be shooting in the dark.
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Got round to fitting the front lip.
The passenger headlight was pretty poor with UV damage so I attempted to tint them temporarily before having to remove them etc, this didn’t go very well. So ahead of budget schedule I also have new headlights which arrived are sat on the shelf ready for some time to fit.
The passenger headlight was pretty poor with UV damage so I attempted to tint them temporarily before having to remove them etc, this didn’t go very well. So ahead of budget schedule I also have new headlights which arrived are sat on the shelf ready for some time to fit.
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
New headlights in. That’s really finished the front end up. It would appear that the engine e came out the front when the clutch was done. This explains the missing air con rad, the poor fitment of the headlights and missing bolts I found on the bumper. All sorted now. The engine mounts and harmonic balancer have been replaced so I assume this was done at the same time.
The side repeaters glow with the day running which is frustrating, easily resolved by flicking the switch but I’d like to resolve that. It’s currently a spur from the front indicator. The same issue exists with the rear lights. Bit of an odds set up which I need to pick apart to reconfigure, as the inner lights glow orange, they are also not illuminated with the DRL switched off. I think but I need to confirm with a meter it’s as follows.
Left to right.
Brake light, ground, side lights: DRL, ground, Indicator.
The side repeaters glow with the day running which is frustrating, easily resolved by flicking the switch but I’d like to resolve that. It’s currently a spur from the front indicator. The same issue exists with the rear lights. Bit of an odds set up which I need to pick apart to reconfigure, as the inner lights glow orange, they are also not illuminated with the DRL switched off. I think but I need to confirm with a meter it’s as follows.
Left to right.
Brake light, ground, side lights: DRL, ground, Indicator.
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Had a little fiddle today and established my assumption was correct.
So I attempted to cut the cable going to the DRL assuming that this would disable the DLR but allow the indicator to flash. Sadly not. I just loose the indicator as well. Bit strange really as the circuit is clearly there, with an alternating 12v from the Ground wire to the turn. There is obviously some connection between the two lives. I will try a switch back LED though and see if that cures the issue with the back lights.
So I attempted to cut the cable going to the DRL assuming that this would disable the DLR but allow the indicator to flash. Sadly not. I just loose the indicator as well. Bit strange really as the circuit is clearly there, with an alternating 12v from the Ground wire to the turn. There is obviously some connection between the two lives. I will try a switch back LED though and see if that cures the issue with the back lights.
Fishy Dave
CCCUK Member
I've not been on the forum for ages, sorry I've missed this thread. It's good to see you working through a list of jobs, rewarding stuff. If you plan to take it on track you will need a power steering cooler, if not, what you have is fine for the road, it won't overheat. I too have a 'base' coupe and killed both my rack and pump through excessive heat, but only after long track sessions. Since fitting a small Mocal cooler behind the front fog light I've had no issues.
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Yes. I did read this. I plan to run two coolers, one for PS and one for engine oil. Annoyingly it looks like pretty much all the gubbins on these cars routes down the drivers side.
I’ve got two other MOT compliant issues to resolve first though. Firstly the hack job of the wiring done to tail lights, which means I have orange running lights on the rear (these can be switched off) and secondly the ECU needs flashing to remove the magride and cat light. With the weather turning its SORN in the garage now though. Chip away at it over winter.
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
Due to lots of racing with my 1999 C5, including Open Road Races that covered from 80 to 120 miles at speeds of 150 to 180ish MPH in hot weather with road temps over 120 F degrees I had to come up with cooling changes for engine oil, MN6 manual tranny and rear transaxle
Change the radiator with a thicker one that allows for higher flow
The end cap on right side could be used as a heat exchanger for tranny or power steering
With better flowing radiator I then installed a coolant heat exchanger that replaces the upper radiator hose
This has a internal coil and replaced the engine oil filter with a end cap with 2 hose connections
Moved the oil filter below the left headlight and used a larger truck oil filter
Now the engine oil pump flows through the filter and heat exchanger
.
GM sells a small cooler that could be used for PS or tranny (top one shown)
When my C5 was close to stock and doing an ORR, mid-way into the run the stock GM MN^ fluid got too high, Expanded and blew out the plastic vent at top of tranny and fluid ended up on both exhaust pipes which turned into a thick smoke and killed every bug in 2 counties
I choose to use a split dual cooler that has 3 coils each, one could be sued for tranny and other for the transaxle
Each having their own pump
Or can couple halves together and becomes one larger cooler
Mounted a 170F degree thermal heat sensor to upper part of tranny case where temps are hottest
When that sensor closed loop would make a ground path to a relay that than trips the 12" cooling fan and turns the pumps on.
Below 170 degs than coil goes open loop and system is off
Change the radiator with a thicker one that allows for higher flow
The end cap on right side could be used as a heat exchanger for tranny or power steering
With better flowing radiator I then installed a coolant heat exchanger that replaces the upper radiator hose
This has a internal coil and replaced the engine oil filter with a end cap with 2 hose connections
Moved the oil filter below the left headlight and used a larger truck oil filter
Now the engine oil pump flows through the filter and heat exchanger
.
GM sells a small cooler that could be used for PS or tranny (top one shown)
When my C5 was close to stock and doing an ORR, mid-way into the run the stock GM MN^ fluid got too high, Expanded and blew out the plastic vent at top of tranny and fluid ended up on both exhaust pipes which turned into a thick smoke and killed every bug in 2 counties
I choose to use a split dual cooler that has 3 coils each, one could be sued for tranny and other for the transaxle
Each having their own pump
Or can couple halves together and becomes one larger cooler
Mounted a 170F degree thermal heat sensor to upper part of tranny case where temps are hottest
When that sensor closed loop would make a ground path to a relay that than trips the 12" cooling fan and turns the pumps on.
Below 170 degs than coil goes open loop and system is off
Dorsetsteve
Well-known user
Thanks for that.
The car came with an aftermarket higher flowing radiator, so that’s there.
My plan was to take off the flexi line on one of the low pressure lines on the rack for the PS cooler feed and mount that behind the fog light.
Engine oil. I was going to use the little blocks on the take off above the oil coolers to drive a thermostat and run the heat exchanger in the gap where the leaf spring was (cars on coilovers).
I had briefly considered the trans and diff cooler but as there’s an additional pump required and I only plan to do track days, not endurance racing etc that I likely didn’t need this?
The car came with an aftermarket higher flowing radiator, so that’s there.
My plan was to take off the flexi line on one of the low pressure lines on the rack for the PS cooler feed and mount that behind the fog light.
Engine oil. I was going to use the little blocks on the take off above the oil coolers to drive a thermostat and run the heat exchanger in the gap where the leaf spring was (cars on coilovers).
I had briefly considered the trans and diff cooler but as there’s an additional pump required and I only plan to do track days, not endurance racing etc that I likely didn’t need this?
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
You did not mention which tranny you have would change how I would cool it
Keeping the fluid temps cooler prevents fluid to thinning out and more friction
Best overall is I use Mobil I, for MN6 is ATF Synthetic and also Mobil has a synthetic for the transaxle
which handle hotter temps better and less chance of expanding or boiling
GM and others sell cooler kits like this one
Would work good for the power steering but in all my high speed racing never had a PS issue with my C5
but that could be as I have a vented cooling hood that extracts heat out of the engine bay
.
Control when a pump or fan comes on there are simple thermal normally open switch
Can get ones for the temp you want it to go closed loop and easy to mount to what you wanted to be cooled
As to pump you want to consider the sound of them when on, so choose a location to where sound level be less in drivers area
As I show here is placed pumps behind the rear inner frame so that pump is more sealed off to the sound it outputs
As I did in case for street driving and not wanting to have pumps working, installed a single pole switch in drivers area
to be able to override the cooler system by switching ground to coil of relays on or off.
