C5 1999 Model ABS and Traction Lights came ON yesterday - HELP

[Nickerbocker Glory]

recently purchased low mileage (30k) C5 - not sure how best to proceed. I figure its the EBCM Unit but maybe a sensor / new pads / bearing? I have yet to run through the Fault Codes so may be catastroph-ising, but I understand its a common fault and replacement EBCM units are hard to find. I'm not the least bit mechanically minded (wot a geek) and living in SE Kent I don't know of a reliable mechanic nearby now that Claremont Corvette only do parts not servicing... Any suggestions?

 

[Stingray]

Do you mean the light came on and has stayed on?

Cars sometimes show a temporary fault with ABS/traction if they are steered immediately from a standing start, particularly if the front wheels are on a loose surface. The differential wheel speed/slippage confuses the computer. Under those circumstances simply restarting the car and driving it in a dead straight line will usually let the system sort itself out.

Beyond that the first port of call is usually to do with sensors and/or their wiring. Check your codes. Sometimes the problem may be as simple as a loose connection. Some assistance on this link,

Seems odd that it's come up shortly after purchase. Wonder if the seller had been fiddling about under the car? Which would lead me to start by checking connections.

 

[Rich]

........ I don't know of a reliable mechanic nearby now that Claremont Corvette only do parts not servicing... Any suggestions?

But Matt is now trading as CCM - see his advert in Vette News.

 

[FIVE RED]

I'd suggest before you dive in too deep & pay someone to find the cause I'd try checking earth/ground points. No need for specific technical knowledge but the C5 has well documented poor earthing points which can lead to many error codes, so I'd try & clean some up first. It's also a good way of getting to know your C5. Earth/ground points are shown here:

C5 Ground Points

www.smokinvette.com

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

Surprised by / delighted with the three virtually immediate, accurate and helpful responses from experienced / long term Club members. Big thanks to each of you.

The lights didn't stay on - and the only TCS Code showing when I scrolled through the DIC was: C1255 - EBCTM Internal Malfunction and that was Historic not Current....

Two possible contributing factors: Firstly - in line with Stingray's observations - I have to perform a tight three point turn every time I reverse out of my rented garage (dead slow as one side of the concrete run up has a slope on it which just brushes the rubber apron). And secondly I have no electric source for trickle charging so use a remote 'Battery Brain' to disconnect / reconnect the battery every time I park / take the car out.

I used the BB on an X150 XKR for five years without mishap - the computer would 're-learn / re-set itself within a few miles. I don't know whether my C5 will behave accordingly - I'd like to think so obviously as I have no alternative with the garage set up and no prospect of having access to a power supply.

I purchased my European spec car 3 owner from a reputable dealer in Stratford Upon Avon and its in excellent condition in spite of having been garaged and (only done 600 miles a year ) for the last 10 years. Checking the earth / ground points is an excellent suggestion and I'll be attending to that directly.

I don't know who Matt is - although I sold a Storm Red fully restored 1966 427 four on the floor Convertible through Tom Falconer at Claremont Corvette in 1999. Quite by chance I subsequently discovered that it was later sold at Bonhams in Paris in 2008 after serious / ridiculous engine mods + an auto box and power steering - Sacrilege! - for what was then silly money. Here's the link if anyone's interested: Bonhams : 1966 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray Big Block Convertible Chassis no. 194676S127152 How I wish I'd kept it - I suspect we all have similar feelings about cars we've let go - and I wonder where it is now..... .

Bit of a ramble there chaps - thanks again for the advice and I will definitely follow up with Matt at CCM.

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

While on the subject of ABS / Traction lights: This company in America offer an EBCM Repair for $530 (for those of us that can't solder?) Is there anyone here in the UK who provides a comparable warranted service? I noticed an ad on EBay for a 'good' secondhand EBCM for $975 - $975!!

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

Corvette 97, 98,99,2000 & 2006 ABS EBCM Module Repair

Corvette 97-2000 also 2006Corvette ABS Module Repair & Return with 2 years Limited Warranty. ABS light On ,Active handling Light On?

www.automotivemodules.com

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

Sorry Stingray - just seen that you attached TWO 'How To' clips (attention to detail not always set to ON I'm afraid)... I guess Matt can solder

 

[teamzr1]

It is common for a small relay in the ETBCM degrades of goes bad
Search on the CCCUK for a thread about this, as one member bought some of these relays
With ETBCM opened up that relay could be replaced by unsoldering, replacing and soldering that and also look
for any other solder joints that might have cracked due to heat

You can see the white relay on my forum at :

ETBCM

Also, possible what is called ground "splice pack" needs to be opened up and cleaning the male and female pins
I show what it looks like here :

Ground Splice Packs

You have a 1999, same as mine, there are 2 splice packs off the frame rail, like near below the headlight areas you could check
that they are nice and clean and also the mount of them to the frame

Bad idea of cutting off the battery power and not using a battery tender as even when car is turned off the controllers do draw voltage current
Controllers do not work well when voltage is below like 12.5 volts

Every time the battery is disconnected everything that is stored in temporary memory is lost and then when battery back on all the controllers have to relearn which takes miles of driving and engine not performing its best
Due to age of your C5 good chance of losing the VATS security code, if the radio has a security password set, and it gets flushed out, and you do not know what the password is to reenter it then until you find a way to unlock it kiss your radio off.

Also, could lose the crank position sensor being sync'd up with the PCM and would require a special relearn process for engine to run correctly

Also, any custom setting like seats, HVAC, etc are lost, and you have to redo them each time battery is connected again
Due to age of the car it is possible that after battery connected that all the controllers sync up with each other on the C5s onboard network and that
causes lots of problems

Is it possible if no street side electricity is use a small gas generator, with a battery tender that only auto comes on when battery tender sees lower car battery ?
Or small solar power cell that outputs enough to keep battery tender functional ?

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

Thanks TeamZR1 - unwelcome news but appreciate your input... will have to speak to my man at Walmer Batteries - see if we can safely jury rig something with a Battery Pack and a trickle charger..

 

[Stingray]

As above, C5s are "voltage sensitive". Just because the battery can crank the starter doesn't mean it's a good battery. There are two different issues in play, "voltage" and "current".

The starter doesn't give a toss about voltage, it just needs loads of current to turn that big V8 engine. On the other hand all those fancy on-board electronics don't draw much current but need a minimum level of voltage to work properly

When a car is cranked the hefty current drawn by the starter causes a voltage drop which may dip too low for the electronics, triggering all sorts of error messages and warning lights.

On C5 one classic sign of a weak battery is if your car defaults to metric units (kilometres and celsius) instead of staying in American units (miles and fahrenheit).

 

[teamzr1]

Thanks TeamZR1 - unwelcome news but appreciate your input... will have to speak to my man at Walmer Batteries - see if we can safely jury rig something with a Battery Pack and a trickle charger..

Maybe a short term workaround

Get another battery, charge it and then use jumper cables to C5 battery as that would double the amount of time C5 is parked with no battery tender or driven

Or with another battery connect a D/C to A/C converter that battery tender is connected to and that then it connects to tender C5 battery
which would not have much of a current draw on external battery and when need be take that battery and tender home to charge that battery and then return to C5

Going back to my other post, if you bought a used C5 and newer Corvette and if you see the theft LED on the radio
you better find out what the password that was set so if in future you could unlock the radio if need be

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

Thanks - I like the second option: very helpful JR (?).... my car has a custom amp / sub woofer and head set which runs without a security code, but again excellent advice to note the code separately...

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

Quite right Stingray - when I reconnect the battery (with the Battery Brain) the car always reverts to KPH / metric

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

This is a direct response to JR / Teamzr1:

I read a carefully as I could your Forum exchanges in August last year regarding Faults with the ETCBM (most of it beyond me I'm afraid: couldn't even manage Physics with Chemistry at O level ). I have spoken to Matt at CCM and will pop over to see him when I get back from Devon for a proper Scan / read out / check on what's actually occurred/ing on my 99 C5 with Traction Control.

I haven't disconnected my battery since your advice and will sort out a trickle charge for the Winter months as suggested.
Nor have the ABS or Traction Control lights come on again.

Confusingly, when I ran through the Fault Codes they were all Historic (not Current) and they all seem related to my disconnecting the battery (see below) EXCEPT the C1255?

CODE History 19/3/22
28-TCS C1255 H EBCTM Internal Malfunction
40-BCM No Codes
58-SDM U1040 H Loss of Communication with TCS
60-IPC No codes
99-HVAC No codes
AO-LDCM B2252 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
A1-RDCM B2253 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
A6-SCM No codes
BO-RFA U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
U1096 Loss of Communication with IPC
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM
C2100 Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2110 Right Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2115 Left Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2120 PM System Malfunction (No Sensors Received)
10-PCM No Codes

 

[teamzr1]

Sure looks like those DTCs are due to battery health issues
I'd assure battery if needed is load tested and if showing weak cell(s) is replacing it and when needed to use a battery tender

Then check if any DTCs return and when driving via the DIC see if all 4 tire pressure sensors are now functional,
If the fey FOB works (which is the same controller as the TPMS) and they are not working, points to the TPMs batteries are shot
and would have to replace the sensors.

The codes starting with a B are the BM controller
All U codes are comm issues, meaning the controllers would not talk to each other when they should have
and tends to happen when voltage or battery cannot handle current loads like the ETBCM for ABS, traction control, etc

Door controllers (LD and RD) again show they could not talk over the car's network and again happens battry issues

58-SDM U1040 H Loss of Communication with TCS
AO-LDCM B2252 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
A1-RDCM B2253 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
BO-RFA U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
U1096 Loss of Communication with IPC
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM
C2100 Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2110 Right Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2115 Left Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2120 PM System Malfunction (No Sensors Received)

 

[Stingray]

Sure looks like those DTCs are due to battery health issues

Agreed.

 

[Nickerbocker Glory]

Very helpful commentary again - thank you!

1: This afternoon I cleared the DIC Codes and drove for 20 miles before checking codes again.
They were all clear (NO CODES) thank goodness, apart from BO-RFA C2120: TPM System Malfunction (No Sensors Received).
This tallied with the Service TCPMS instruction which had flashed up on the steering column display after 14 miles driving.

2: I cleared the Codes again and drove (via a different route with bendier / rougher roads) the 12 miles back to my garage.
Once there I checked the DIC again. This time NO CODES showing for all.
However - worth noting that my Key Fob does not work remotely, and hasn't done since I ran the check / received all the historic DIC Codes I listed earlier on 19th March. Could be the little remote battery in Fob - I will check by using the other key next time.

A couple of observations which may / may not be relevant:
i) My VIN number for 1999 car is: 1G1YY22G0X5133283 with a G90 performance (3.15) rear axle
This is the very last 1999 manufactured Vette. I don't imagine that all the car sensors and internals for 2000 'manufactured cars were all given entirely new model year sensors / relays etc... so more than likely that by the end of the 1999 production year 2000 model parts were already installed on my car. I mention this because of the apparent anomaly on JR's ETBCM being a later year (2001) which was not an after sale add-on as he bought the car with just 500 miles on it.
ii) The Dealer fitted a 'new' standard 700 VARTA battery just before I bought the car, NOT a recommended (AGM) OPTIMA Battery with the following spec:

CCA / EN	815
CCA / SAE	850
Capacity (Ah)	50
Construction	AGM
Maintenance Free	Yes
Product Type	Battery
Terminal Layout	Positive on Left (Layout 1)
Terminal Type	Bolt Through Terminals (Type 2)
Voltage	12V
Warranty (Years)	4

Might the VARTA battery have contributed to the 'electrical' problems?

One final (for the time being anyway ) question:
I have booked in with a very reputable 'engine enhancement' digital consultancy for a remap of engine and gearbox to enable a late 90's performance car's responsiveness to match that of a modern supercar.... They may / may not deliver, but that's not my primary concern.
In the past I have had a Porsche 930 engine rebuilt with a different cam / bigger waste gate and adjustable turbo boost to reduce turbo lag (and excitement) which was disappointing - so I fought shy of adjusting the supercharger pulleys and a 'remap' pf my 4.2 X150 V8 Jaguar XKR because I was worried that the factory set up might not adjust that well. Yet here I am considering remapping the LS1 because I understand it's fundamentally tried and tested 'old' technology - infinitely 'upgradeable' and bullet proof. My question is: will a remap have any effect on the reliability of the digital electronics which seem to be the Achilles heel of the C5 (and upwards) Corvette - and other modern supercars come to think of it

Thanks again for your putting in the time on these forums: immensely helpful and much appreciated.

 

[teamzr1]

I have never heard of the battery they put in, maybe only sells in your country ?
If measuring voltage, right at battery should be around 12.8 volts, when driving look via DIC or on dash voltage gauge should be around 14.3 volts

It is clear that once you erased the DTCs that all went away but still have a TPMs and FOB issue
As I mentioned, both of them use the same controller that is located below the B pillar on drivers side, below where the shoulder belt is
that can be seen by looking on the left side of hatch b y B pillar
Could be

1. Bad ground for that controller
2. try using the fob near right and left doors and front and rear of car as there are 4 antennas and see if FOB works with one of them would
at least tell us if the controller is OK
3. Could be the battery in FOB needs to be replaced, it is 3 volts you could measure it with a meter to see what condition it is in
4. The C5 came with 2 FOBs did you get both ? As it could be, the one you're using is not programmed
5. Is the FOB set via the switch on front to passive mode or not and then via DIC in options
A. set FOB for if you want passive or not and if FOB battery is good then via DIC resync FOB with the remote controller
B. Try all buttons on FOB and see if any of them work
C. on Drivers' door there are 2 buttons to set memory for each FOB, seat positions, outside rearview mirror setting etc.
Loss of car battery for any length of time will cause all those saved settings to be lost and have to redo them again, including radio and HVAC settings
so again reason not to let the car battery drain down, use a battery tender

6. Now via DIC while you were driving did you go to the tire pressure reading and see if all, some or none were reported ?
A. could be the TPM in 1 or all wheels the batteries are shot, cannot be replaced, would have to replace the sensors
B Did last owner pull sensors out, look at the stem of air fill and see if they are metal or looks like a normal rubber stem
C. You might have to use via DIC the tire pressure relearn, need a good magnet, and via that relearn started must use a strong magnet
starting with LF right by air steam, horn should beep for each wheel you do correctly, then RF, then RR and last LR
I use Earth magnets as they are stronger or need a TPMs electronic tool to do relearns
D. Is it possible that the FOB is not the original one, and is using a different frequency than the controller's using ( US import V Europe model as thy use different Freq)

Being again TPMS and FOB same controller, make sure the fuse for that remote controller is good

If you do not have the 1999 C5 owner's manual, below I attached a PDF version below, so you can read up how to set TPMS and Fobs up

If with more driving and TPS DTCs trip again really says you need to do what I mention above

As to tuning, that is what my business has been since 1995 for most all GM gas engine vehicles
I can custom tune your PCM and if A4 auto tranny via emails
But in short, a good custom tune will gain about 30 plus flywheel HP and torque from low to mid-RPMs go up nicely
tranny will shift faster, and I also redo the torque management so tranny controller is not yanking so much torque out on up or downshifts
Also, I redo all the timing tables, fuel, idle, fans, engine knock, misfires, when each auto gear auto shifts as to RPM and MPH, etc
And still pass onboard smog tests while gaining on fuel mileage

 

[teamzr1]

Decode of your VIN #

• VIN 1G1YY22G0X5133283
• The VIN decodes to a 1999 Chevrolet Corvette with a 5.7L V8 OHV 16V engine.​

• Basic

• Model Year 1999

  Body Type COUPE 2-DR

• Make Chevrolet

  Series Corvette

• Trim Level Coupe

  Origin UNITED STATES

• Dimensions

• Width, Max w/o mirrors (in) 73.6

  Height 47.70 in.

• Front Hip Room 54.20 in.

  Height, Overall (in) 47.7

• Wheelbase (in) 104.5

  Width 73.60 in.

• Front Shoulder Room 55.30 in.

  Front Legroom 42.70 in.

• Front Headroom 37.90 in.

  Passenger Volume 51.40 cu.ft.

• Turning Diameter 40.00 in.

  Track Rear 64.40 in.

• Track Front 62.00 in.

  Ground Clearance 3.70 in.

• Wheelbase 104.50 in.

  Length 179.70 in.

• Cargo Volume 24.80 cu.ft.

• Drivetrain

• Vehicle Stability Control System Optional

  Traction Control Standard

• Driveline RWD

  Transmission '

• Engine Type 5.7L V8 OHV 16V

  Limited Slip Differential Standard

• Braking

• ABS Brakes Standard

  Front Brake Type Disc

• Rear Brake Type Disc

  Anti-Brake System 4-Wheel ABS

• Suspension

• Rear Suspension Independent

  Front Spring Type Leaf

• Front Suspension Independent

  Rear Spring Type Leaf

• Steering Type Rack & Pinion

• Colors

• Exterior Color '

Interior Trim '

• Seating

• Leather Seat Standard

  Driver Multi-Adjustable Power Seat Standard

• Passenger Multi-Adjustable Power Seat Optional

  Standard Seating 2

• Weight

• Curb Weight 3246 lbs

• Safety

• Vehicle Anti-Theft Optional

  Power Door Locks Standard

• Passenger Airbag Standard

  Driver Airbag Standard

• Keyless Entry Standard

• Warranty

• Basic (distance) 36,000 mile

  Powertrain (distance) 36,000 mile

• Basic (duration) 36 month

  Powertrain (duration) 36 month

• Feature

• Removable Top Optional

  Cruise Control Standard

• Tachometer Standard

  Tilt Steering Standard

• Cargo Net Optional

  Leather Steering Wheel Standard

• Telescopic Steering Column Optional

  Splash Guards Optional

• Power Windows Standard

  Rear Window Defogger Standard

• Cargo Area Cover Optional

  Tilt Steering Column Standard

• Comfort

• Air Conditioning Standard

• Wheels and Tires

• Front Wheel Size (in) 17 x 8.5

  Rear Tire Size P275/40ZR18

• Front Tire Size P245/45ZR17

  Alloy Wheels Standard

• Rear Wheel Size (in) 18 x 9.5

  Tires 245/45R17

• Pricing

• Dealer Invoice $33,968 USD

  MSRP $38,820 USD

• Engine

• EPA Fuel Economy Est - City (MPG) 17

  Displacement 5.7L/346

• SAE Net Horsepower @ RPM 345 @ 5600

  EPA Fuel Economy Est - Hwy (MPG) 25

• SAE Net Torque @ RPM 350 @ 4400

• Fuel

• MPG (city) 17 - 18 miles/gallon

  Fuel Tank 19.10 gallon

• MPG (hwy) 25 - 28 miles/gallon

  Fuel System SFI

• Lighting

• Automatic Headlights Optional

  Fog Lights Optional