Exciting day - rebuild of 78 coupe

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Rubber and poly bushes work different.

A rubber bush will be bonded inside and outside so the as the link rotates you’re deforming the rubber.

Poly bushes aren’t bonded so the inner and outer rotate around the bush (like a bearing) that’s why your poly bushed link will move with relative ease.
 

kentvette

CCCUK Member
Rubber and poly bushes work different.

A rubber bush will be bonded inside and outside so the as the link rotates you’re deforming the rubber.

Poly bushes aren’t bonded so the inner and outer rotate around the bush (like a bearing) that’s why your poly bushed link will move with relative ease.
Yes, I guess I'd forgotten that the rod did move so easily! And of course it means that the issue of tightening the cam bolt with the car on the ground and suspension "loaded" isn't there....

Plus, the poly bushes were sooo much easier to fit! :)
 

johng

CCCUK Member
Stephen, my setup is exactly the same as yours except of course that my cam bolts and washers like to rotate even when done up tight! I'm hopeful that I will have fixed the problem by turning the loose washer around so that the concave side is next to the bracket, just need to take the car for a spin to find out. Hopefully will have time tomorrow. If not then I need to find another way to prevent the rotation.
 

kentvette

CCCUK Member
Fingers crossed then! I've never noticed the concave/convex thing, but I suspect I just put it back as it came off, without too much attention being paid! :rolleyes:
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
I would think, what we call a spring washer (convex) must face the surface wanting to compress (clamp) downward like this :


springwasher.jpg
 

johng

CCCUK Member
Yes, I'm not sure if the cam washer is supposed to be dished, or my one has just got bent. Either way having the concave side against the bracket must provide a better clamp.
Stephen, I didn't notice the dishing when I rebuilt the suspension. It was only apparent when I put a file across the back face and noticed it only touched on the edges.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Guys - apologise for mildly railroading this thread. I need some rear suspension advise please. Bought a pair of s/h trailing arms a couple of years ago that were ideal for wider wheels (parking brake cable mounts were moved to alternative position) - plan was to have them blasted and power coated before using them to replace my current trailing arms. I'm fairly sure that the rubber pivot bushes are past their best. The arms came with new Poly bushing kit which as been 'robbed' for bits (the seller decided to buy offset trailing arms)
My question is - in terms of lateral trailing arm movement (side to side) can anyone tell me if the poly bushes have less side to side movement (as compared with OEM rubber bushes)
 

johng

CCCUK Member
Guys - apologise for mildly railroading this thread. I need some rear suspension advise please. Bought a pair of s/h trailing arms a couple of years ago that were ideal for wider wheels (parking brake cable mounts were moved to alternative position) - plan was to have them blasted and power coated before using them to replace my current trailing arms. I'm fairly sure that the rubber pivot bushes are past their best. The arms came with new Poly bushing kit which as been 'robbed' for bits (the seller decided to buy offset trailing arms)
My question is - in terms of lateral trailing arm movement (side to side) can anyone tell me if the poly bushes have less side to side movement (as compared with OEM rubber bushes)
Ross do you mean lateral movement at the wheel or of the bush itself? Given that poly bushes are stiffer than rubber, the bush itself might move slightly more with rubber, but I doubt it would make a noticeable difference at the wheel. Lateral motion of the wheel is controlled by the strut rod and driveshaft.
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Guys - apologise for mildly railroading this thread. I need some rear suspension advise please. Bought a pair of s/h trailing arms a couple of years ago that were ideal for wider wheels (parking brake cable mounts were moved to alternative position) - plan was to have them blasted and power coated before using them to replace my current trailing arms. I'm fairly sure that the rubber pivot bushes are past their best. The arms came with new Poly bushing kit which as been 'robbed' for bits (the seller decided to buy offset trailing arms)
My question is - in terms of lateral trailing arm movement (side to side) can anyone tell me if the poly bushes have less side to side movement (as compared with OEM rubber bushes)

Depends on how the Poly is made, if good quality then I would choose them over stock rubber

Rubber Versus Polyurethane

Which material is better?


As with most material selection questions, the answer is
“it depends on”. Both materials have their place, but which material is actually superior?

In the case of tires, seals, and some belts, rubber is the best material.
In the case of bushings, spacers, and high load components, polyurethane is the better choice.

Polyurethane has higher abrasion, cut, and tear resistance.
It can be made in a higher hardness rating, and it has better load bearing capacity.
Polyurethane is easily colored, in some cases chemical resistant, and much easier and cost-effective to mold into shapes and sizes.

Rubber by its soft nature allows for the absorption of vibrations and noise which may give the assumption that polyurethane isn’t as good for vibration dampening, but polyurethane is also an excellent energy absorber and can be made in very low durometers.

In most cases polyurethane outperforms its rubber counterparts in replacement of many components including; bushings, pads, and many others. The parts will last longer, standing up to chemicals and oils, and compression and load.
Finally, polyurethane looks better than rubber. In some cases this will not matter, but a polyurethane part will always look much better than its rubber counterpart.

So in the end, if you are going for performance and quality, choose polyurethane.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Inner sidewall of tyre (285/40/18 on a 18 x 9" rim - 5" backspace) when measured has about 3/8" clearance to frame. In use the tyre 'polishes' a small section of the inner frame where it rises up over the real axle assembly. It can't be much as there is no evidence of rubbing or abrasion on the tyre. My presumption is that its sideways flex of trailing arm, perhaps when cornering hard.......its both sides. But if trailing arm is supported closer to the end of the arm by strut rod and drive shaft (as JohnG notes) perhaps I also need to look elsewhere too?
 
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Roscobbc

Moderator
Can a wheel spacer be used to push the wheel out, like 3/16 inch or less ?

What is 2895 mean ?
Sorry - typo - meant to say 285mm. I guess a spacer is the simplest option - 3/16" isn't likely to create any major issues. Pehaps replace the TA bushes (with Poly) and see what effect this has and take it from there........
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Hmm,
wonder your using a 285/40/18 on 9-inch wide wheel
As a compare I use for fronts on my C5, 275/35/18 on 10-inch wide rims

I wonder yours being a 40 is taller sidewall and would bulge sidewall in 9-inch wide rim
so if deciding to stay with that size, I'd think about trying the wheel spacer should clear the inner side

Also, maybe running a bit higher air pressure would help but if me I'd go 9-inch wide would remove the bulge

I agree going with the poly will stiffen and reduce side movement some
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Max tire size to rim width
So in my 1999 C5

Front rims are 10x18 inch, so I went with 275/35/18
Rear rims are 12x18 inch, so I went with 335/30/18
No bulge of sideways at all


Your tires are too wide for a 9-inch wide rim, so wheel spacer the cheapest fix
Examples :
1968 Corvette Wheel Spacers

tiretowheelsize.jpg
 
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