Is this C3 for me?

[L303]

Hello,
I’m new here and hoping to join you all in ownership. I’ve been dreaming of a C3 for about 10 years and I finally found one not too far away and within my budget.

It’s a 1974, seems to run well, could be driven. It’s not perfect and there’s definitely a few issues to sort. It’s been dry stored with its current owner for over 20yrs. Some threads on the forum have come up on Google when I’ve researched bits, so thank you.

I’m finding it hard to know what’s too much when it comes to the birdcage and I’m wondering if any of you would help with your experience here? Is it unrealistic to get one without rust when it hasn’t been restored at all?

I took off the kick plate in the footwells and found rust, it’s not rotten through and is solid when you tap it but it is pitted towards the bottom and the washer/bolt look nasty. I do have pictures I could post later. From looking at it, it looks like I could wire wheel, treat the rust and protect the area along with new bushes and bolts.

under the car it seems like surface rust, can’t see any rot. From what can be seen down the windshield it looks ok too. Gone over it quite thoroughly, jacked (not on a lift though) but I am certainly no expert. I am worried about what I can’t see.

I’m looking for a drivers car and im willing to learn to do the work to keep it running and in decent shape but there will be a point where it’s just too much for me to handle and that’s what I'm wondering with this. I don’t have the funds for a full restoration.

one of my first jobs on the list would be to get it on a lift, steam clean and protect the underneath. Followed by wheel bearings.

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.

 

[Roscobbc]

Welcome to the CCCUK forum.......unlike perhaps many C3 owners you seem to have done some fairly intensive research on potential issues you might face. Yes, corrosion issues with the frame are a potential issue....as is the windscreen support structure - later C3's have metal floorpans which can be corroded. Front radiator support rust isn't unknown. My guess that the brakes on a car that has been stored for 20 year will need checking out. If stored with old brake fluid and in a poor enviroment they may need a major overhaul, disc's perhaps too? All doable, all parts are available (at a cost) - why did the previous owner no us it for 20 years? were there mechanical issues that he couldn't afford to address? - you need to list all the obvious things that need doing at the likely cost - add the things that might need doing due to standing so long (tyres, radiator, auto box seals, brake lines, exhaust, etc and balance it aginst) and ask yourself is the asking price worth the gamble? do you like the car that much you'll buy it anyway...........
One easy check regarding how good the frame might be is to jack the front-end of the car up each side from under the chassis just behind the front wheel.......and observe the respective door gaps......will the door open as easy as it does on the ground? does the width of the door gap change change when doing this. A length of cardboard inserted snugly in the door gaps before jacking will give a clue if 'nipped' in place and either fall out or are not removable when the car is raised.
How is the bodywork? - microblisters will generally require the body refinishing.......

 

[L303]

Welcome to the CCCUK forum.......unlike perhaps many C3 owners you seem to have done some fairly intensive research on potential issues you might face. Yes, corrosion issues with the frame are a potential issue....as is the windscreen support structure - later C3's have metal floorpans which can be corroded. Front radiator support rust isn't unknown. My guess that the brakes on a car that has been stored for 20 year will need checking out. If stored with old brake fluid and in a poor enviroment they may need a major overhaul, disc's perhaps too? All doable, all parts are available (at a cost) - why did the previous owner no us it for 20 years? were there mechanical issues that he couldn't afford to address? - you need to list all the obvious things that need doing at the likely cost - add the things that might need doing due to standing so long (tyres, radiator, auto box seals, brake lines, exhaust, etc and balance it aginst) and ask yourself is the asking price worth the gamble? do you like the car that much you'll buy it anyway...........
One easy check regarding how good the frame might be is to jack the front-end of the car up each side from under the chassis just behind the front wheel.......and observe the respective door gaps......will the door open as easy as it does on the ground? does the width of the door gap change change when doing this. A length of cardboard inserted snugly in the door gaps before jacking will give a clue if 'nipped' in place and either fall out or are not removable when the car is raised.
How is the bodywork? - microblisters will generally require the body refinishing.......

Hi Roscobbc, thank you for your response. Yes I have dived in there and tried to learn as much as possible.

Owner is genuine and used it for about 13 years lightly and then stopped due to health and has decided it's time to move on. Mechanically there's one slow leak of the steering valve - which can be replaced with the spare. It has been stored in a garage under a cover, garage doesn't seem overly damp or anything but it is a garage in the UK. It's a manual. I feeI have negotiated to a decent price for the state of it which allows me to undertake the most important items (wheel bearings, get rid of the short shifter, underneath clean and protect, steering valve replacement, overall check of wear parts). The frame state is the biggie and of course there's no real way to review it all without taking the car apart and I don't really want to preparing the frame, only cleaning it up and protecting.

Interior is on the tattier side, top of dash, door trim but this doesn't scare me it just requires new parts when possible ££ but it's lower on the list of course.

Wish I had thought of your test when I was there. Door gaps seemed consistent when on the floor and jacked. Probably can't go back a third time and do it again. You are right, brakes will most likely need looking at, definitely one to inspect but don't feel it's a deal breaker item. Tyres are reasonably new with no flat spots. Exhaust would need looking at but not urgent I don't think. Keen on moving to side exhausts. A lot of work has been done over at Claremont in the past.

Body work, probably a 10-12 footer. It does have bubbled areas though it doesn't feel like empty pockets of air in them, there are a couple of chips/dents. It's not the original colour. As I intend to drive it as much as possible over the ah hmmm.. dryer months we may have.. I would live with this and rock the patina unless it is bad to do this? A paint job would be a long £save as I understand you're looking at around 10k.

I have some images here including the rusted body mount area on the a pillars.

 

[Nassau65]

As a potential buyer, go back a third time to do the cardboard test. Why not? I’m quite sure the seller will not mind.
The interior is a very expensive item on corvettes, parts are very expensive and have to be imported. Used interior items will most probably be in the same condition as yours unless you’re lucky. So, if you can live with it, then fine. Just a nice clean will probably improve it no end.

 

[L303]

Yes no doubt, a good clean would do wonders I think. But yes some vinyl is peeling off the door cards which are a bit eye watering but it's not stopping it functioning so it can wait. New carpets, seals and seat covers though.

In terms of going back, it's not so much the seller it's me. My time is almost nonexistent now for a couple of weeks and I'm out of the country. It has been a struggle the past few weeks since I saw it as everything happens at once. I can take the risk of course and see if it's still around. Would be a shame as I don't think I'd find one like this in this price range again.

 

[Nassau65]

Those pictures don’t look too bad, a good wire wheeling and treatment will do wonders. The car at least has been garaged so has been out of the weather, only damp moist air has been around it.
It is after all just shy of being 50 years old, so it’s gonna need stuff.
It’s just a question of pulling the trigger so to speak. Good luck.

 

[Roscobbc]

Firstly don't bother about the power steering leak....its typical and once the system has been used and heated-up a bit the seals may expand a little and your leak could disappear.......someone has spenr money - it has headers and Koni shocks. It also appears to have a 7 leaf rear spring.......indicative of the Slalom suspension option which helps handling a bit.....close actually to a European 'feel'. One of the birdcage mounts looks a bit more than surface rust (difficult to tell) - yes, interior will be expensive - perhaps don't bother (as already said) about used parts.......Vette 'plastic' interior gets brittle and degrades with age. Is there a problem with the wheel bearings? - normally they are fairly robust and shouldn't need replacement unless 'lumpy' when rotating wheel. Total overhaul of brakes could be up to £2K......but perhaps not needed and just a set of pistons a 'O' ring seals and new performance pads will do the job. Has the car been stored with anti-freeze in the coolant system? - if not core plugs and radiator core could be suspect.........all that surface oil up front is good for rust prevention!

 

[L303]

Thank you for having a look Nassau65 and Roscobbc!

We jacked it and gave the wheels the old up/down wiggle and 3 of the 4 had a slight clunk/play to them. I only had a short test drive but we couldn't hear them rumbling but also the V8 is pretty loud Knew about the shocks he fitted but interesting info about the 7 leaf and also the info on the valve. Brake overhaul is eye watering, didn't know that. Unsure about the coolant, though there's no sign of coolant leak. I can ask the owner.

With the driver side mount photo we did clean it off and vacuum it. Did the same to the passenger side too but I forgot to take another picture before putting it back together.

 

[teamzr1]

If going back for 1 more look see take some photos of the engine bay

Looks like bushings for suspension need to be replaced



Need to see as looks like engine oil leak, take some photos of the lower front to see if leak is timing chain cover, crank seal, valve covers, or oil pan



Looks like surface rust, should be easy to clean up

What type of tranny, if manual does clutch pedal feel good, if auto can be short driven to see if torque converter or gears slipping

Seems the brakes hoses are newer, so maybe brakes have been also serviced and need of brake fluid flush along with other fluids and oils
How old is the gas in tank, if needing to flush tank of gas
If parked for a long time, what is the state of the battery
Any Y-joints with Zert fitting doing a grease job

With long tube headers the car was not just for car showing so check for any exhaust leaks from exhaust manifolds, and back
Of course check the electrics to see if lights, radio, HVAC, etc work
Flush coolant and clean up any crap stuck to radiator

 

[Emc]

You will need front springs they have collapsed

 

[Nassau65]

The good thing about the corvette is nearly everything is available to keep the car on the road, especially the earlier cars C1, 2, & 3. C4 is not far behind. It’s hard to believe the C4 is now 40 years old. Where did all the years go?
Mechanical wise it’s all pretty straightforward plain old Chevrolet GM so bits are not that expensive. You may pay a bit more because it’s a corvette, but hey shop around. Specific Corvette bits ie interior yes, expensive compared to say a Camaro or mustang.
Any old cars gonna need stuff doing unless it’s all been done, and that car will cost more. Common sense.
It’s all about taking a chance unless you can afford to buy one that’s been restored.

The term Caveat Emptor has never been more appropriate than when buying a 50 year old car.

 

[Roscobbc]

The rubber bushings have to get really bad before they present a major problem (like chunks missing) - much of the oil all over the place could be to do with the steering leak - perhaps the oil pan gasket has failed - is there a dripping out of the bellhousing on to the floor (rear main oil seal leaking?) if the engine has a bit of 'blow-by' (crankcase pressure) and the PCV valve isn't coping with it......the result can be oil or oil mist blown out of any orifices in the engine (like a dodgy sump gasket)........when its running and warmed up a little what happens if you remove the drivers side oil filler cap? - is it blowing signifciant pressure?

 

[teamzr1]

I would think that steering fluid is light and would flow off the engine
where, at least from the photo, looks thicker.
See a bit of the serpentine belt, I do not think steering fluid would be so soaked there
At the least, the buyer seeing this should look (be easy by touch to know if oil or fluid)
if some gasket or seal, or head not torqued down

 

[L303]

You will need front springs they have collapsed

Ok thank you EMC. We had it jacked up at the back for some of these photos, could this be making it look like they have collapsed?

If going back for 1 more look see take some photos of the engine bay

Looks like bushings for suspension need to be replaced

Need to see as looks like engine oil leak, take some photos of the lower front to see if leak is timing chain cover, crank seal, valve covers, or oil pan

Looks like surface rust, should be easy to clean up

Thanks Teamzr1. Alright, on my list if I can go back. As for bushings, would look to replace the ones that need it along with body mounts.

What type of tranny, if manual does clutch pedal feel good, if auto can be short driven to see if torque converter or gears slipping

It's a manual and the clutch pedal feels ok but heavy - though I am used to a modern Audi's light clutch.

Seems the brakes hoses are newer, so maybe brakes have been also serviced and need of brake fluid flush along with other fluids and oils
How old is the gas in tank, if needing to flush tank of gas
If parked for a long time, what is the state of the battery
Any Y-joints with Zert fitting doing a grease job

Gas was removed from tank when not in use. Battery works fine, it's on trickle charge. Got a grease gun I can have access to but I don't know about their current state.

With long tube headers the car was not just for car showing so check for any exhaust leaks from exhaust manifolds, and back
Of course check the electrics to see if lights, radio, HVAC, etc work
Flush coolant and clean up any crap stuck to radiator

Two lights have blown but new ones on order. Air con has been disconnected, for fuel consumption I think. Am I right in thinking you can't really regas the original unit due to the chemicals used?

I think I'd trailer it back. I could technically drive it home but it looks like there's a lot more to go through before it could really be driven. Would have been nice to be able to enjoy some of summer with it on the road after doing the main items.

 

[L303]

I would think that steering fluid is light and would flow off the engine
where, at least from the photo, looks thicker.
See a bit of the serpentine belt, I do not think steering fluid would be so soaked there
At the least, the buyer seeing this should look (be easy by touch to know if oil or fluid)
if some gasket or seal, or head not torqued down

Possibly the sump for part of it. It looked a little dinked. It looks dryer the further up you go. Doesn't rule out seals on the engine, timing cover etc.

 

[L303]

The rubber bushings have to get really bad before they present a major problem (like chunks missing) - much of the oil all over the place could be to do with the steering leak - perhaps the oil pan gasket has failed - is there a dripping out of the bellhousing on to the floor (rear main oil seal leaking?) if the engine has a bit of 'blow-by' (crankcase pressure) and the PCV valve isn't coping with it......the result can be oil or oil mist blown out of any orifices in the engine (like a dodgy sump gasket)........when its running and warmed up a little what happens if you remove the drivers side oil filler cap? - is it blowing signifciant pressure?

I can't answer that unfortunately as didn't remove the oil filler cap so one for the list.
Nothing obvious dripping out of the bellhousing onto the floor. Difficult to see a specific bit as it seems to be all over.

 

[L303]

The good thing about the corvette is nearly everything is available to keep the car on the road, especially the earlier cars C1, 2, & 3. C4 is not far behind. It’s hard to believe the C4 is now 40 years old. Where did all the years go?
Mechanical wise it’s all pretty straightforward plain old Chevrolet GM so bits are not that expensive. You may pay a bit more because it’s a corvette, but hey shop around. Specific Corvette bits ie interior yes, expensive compared to say a Camaro or mustang.
Any old cars gonna need stuff doing unless it’s all been done, and that car will cost more. Common sense.
It’s all about taking a chance unless you can afford to buy one that’s been restored.

The term Caveat Emptor has never been more appropriate than when buying a 50 year old car.

Haha yeah so true, it's difficult this would be my first venture into classic ownership. I do ride some American Iron so have had those frustrations but this would certainly take it up a level! I would be lying if I hadn't wondered if I am cut out for it so this thread is very helpful for me. Gotta start somewhere... if I do pull the trigger!

Unfortunately I cannot buy a restored one so I understand I'd need to do more work. I think I'd find it hard to drop £25-30k on a classic with my situation if I'm honest no matter how much I go all 🥹 at the 69s.

 

[teamzr1]

Two lights have blown but new ones on order.

Air con has been disconnected, for fuel consumption I think. Am I right in thinking you can't really regas the original unit due to the chemicals used?

Guess one of your tasks is to find out why A/C is down as to costs of repairing it
Yes, older Freon is illegal here in the USA,
not sure in the UK but there are kits that convert older A/C system to use newer Freon makeup

 

[L303]

Guess one of your tasks is to find out why A/C is down as to costs of repairing it
Yes, older Freon is illegal here in the USA,
not sure in the UK but there are kits that convert older A/C system to use newer Freon makeup

From what I understand it was disconnected due to fuel consumption. I saw this mentioned a few other times by people when researching so didn't get any red flags from it.

 

[teamzr1]

Possibly the sump for part of it. It looked a little dinked. It looks dryer the further up you go. Doesn't rule out seals on the engine, timing cover etc.

If using a high-pressure washer, clean up all that
If need be there are ultraviolet dyes can be put in oil or fluids and these kits come with UV lights that than could trace where the oil/fluid is coming from