Thanks for the reply, it's the bits in between the blades I can see becoming a problem, there almost appears to be no finish on them as such, can see dirt becoming ingrained over time.Mine rarely get dirty as only 6k miles in 29 years, and caught in the rain twice. Sad, I know. I usually remove them from the car, wash with warm soapy water, in between the blades with a fairy soft brush to remove any dirt. Rinse and dry. Mothers or solvo autosol on the blade ends and rim. Wash off wheel again and dry. Chrome polish on the cones and spinners.
Years ago when Ford had a foundry in Dagenham workers and local residents cars would get covered with tiny particles which would leach in to the paint leaving a rusty residue when it rained. Those in the 'know' used a solution with Oxalic acid to remove.......Someone who used to be a car detailer has suggested fall out remover, anyone tried this?
Cheers, I will try that (carefully)Years ago when Ford had a foundry in Dagenham workers and local residents cars would get covered with tiny particles which would leach in to the paint leaving a rusty residue when it rained. Those in the 'know' used a solution with Oxalic acid to remove.......
TBH I vividly remember seeing white finished Ford workers car that looked as though the paint surface was rusting through. Brown rust stains on the paint surface from where the fallout had burn or etched in to the paint surface...don't think the acid did too much good to the paint other than removing the fallout.Cheers, I will try that (carefully)
I think mine were only added about 4 or 5 years ago by the previous owner so not originals but possibly reproductions?I bought a set from 1964 last year that were pretty tarnished and nothing I tried would make much of any difference even using my big Karcher with the diesel heater, Iron Eater (Gliptone) I chucked everything at them then gave up. Because they're unpainted in that year and however few sets that were produced in 1963 everything including brake dust gets baked in and 'at one' with the surface. Mine were to be painted to go on the silver 65 anyway so they're in there being done now and may be finished tomorrow including a clear coat finish to assist in keeping them clean. It's £150 per wheel but that includes painting and diamond cutting which yours may not need.
You'll be hard pressed to find a genuine set of KH knock off's but Western Wheel versions made under license are pretty common and all three sets of mine are WW. Just as well as a set of genuine KH can fetch 20kI think mine were only added about 4 or 5 years ago by the previous owner so not originals but possibly reproductions?
But would you want them if they don't hold air?Before Christmas I saw a set of very early 1963 two bar knocks for sale. All originated for $55k. The option for KO ‘s was pulled very very early in the model year due to problems. Accounts very over how many if any were delivered to customers, but the actual wheels did/do exist.
But would you want them if they don't hold air?
There's a guy out there reproducing 2 bar spinners to amazing quality but I prefer 3 ears
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I suppose you would have to run them with tubes. Had to put tubes in my KH wire wheels on my 1957 T-Bird as they kept leaking. I used burlap to protect the tube from the spokes. Worked fine. Let’s be fair we all ran cars with tubes for years.
Agree with the three eared spinners. Much more chunky and look much much better.