I am totally agree about the dazzle from modern cars , it is making driving at night a real pain these days . Even being perched up higher in my Jeep doesn`t help and being a 2006 model with original spec headlights I ain`t going dazzle anyone as there are as dim as candles on dipped beam compared to new vehicles .
Yes, I read about that many moons ago for my FTO which I retrofitted with HIDs, which was fine MOT time as it has projector lenses and HID was a factory option. HIDs didn't help much though, nor do the fancy expensive halogens it now has, as the light clusters aren't great for output anyway, and its very low to the ground so the light doesn't go far.
When fitting LEDs to your brake or indicators you shouldn't use white / clear LEDs as the spectrum of light they emit is different and the lights will look very "washed out", fit red LEDs to brake lights and amber LEDs to indicators.
I changed all mine for halogen H4 recently and used a conversion kit which was easy, to have all 4 on dipped and on main beam, the difference pardon the pun is night and day. it also keeps them looking original but a lot more useable.
Which kit did you use for your conversion? And how does the wiring / electrical hold out with all 4 on dipped and main with Halogens? I've been in contact with Duncan at Classic Car LEDs and he's given me some advice. So in the new year I'm hoping to try a set of H4 reflector conversions with an LED dipped/main bulb in them. The only issue I can't resolve in my mind is whether to keep with the classic lights look of 3000k "yellow" lights, or go for the modern 6000k "cool white" look. I'm torn, as the cool white would look good and modern, but not sure whether it'd work on a 60s car. I'm currently thinking go for the 6000k anyway and give it a go.
Compare yer LED's (as fitted to cars) with domestic LED installations. Walk past any modern or recently refurbished older property at night and what do you often see? - overlit rooms. So, no curtains to start with, so everything on full display (no modesty here!) and usually a proliferation of 'cool white' LED downlighters that although individually of low energy consumption to perhaps 'show off' their tacky furniture, ornaments and multi-shade eggshell grey paintwork........they will have perhaps 15 or 20 of these ultra bright LED's (probably totaling a far higher energy footprint than the 'old school' tungsten filament lamps they would have used some years back). So you'll have a family sitting in their lounge, bathed in close to blinding 'cool white' lighting with their 76" OLED TV cranked-up on full brightness with the colour pallete also turned-up full........
You'd probably need to fit a relay if you were going to fit 4 H4 halogens (I had to when I fitted 2 H4s and 2 H1s), but as it looks like you going LED then presumably this is much lower wattage and hence no problem
Don't go down the cool white or led jobbies I used a H4 kit from CK which has all the re
i used a kit supplied by CK for the wiring conversion with the relays and everything you need. I’m no auto electric guy so this worked really well for me. Then bought the new lights and H4 bulbs. Nice easy tidy job .
I see you're a massive fan of 6000k / cool white LEDs then?
It's just a 'thing' of mine really.......spent years designing lighting control systems for domestic and commercial applications and irritated by the blanket approach to internal lighting that 90% of builders, installers and most suppliers take. Yes, cool white for bathrooms and perhaps kitchens but 'er indoors will get her make-up all wrong when she goes out in the 'open air' and the cooked meal when served on the table will looked washed out. Warm white is closest to natural light, i.e daylight and good old fashioned (extinct perhaps) did a good job of replicating that. On a vehicle it doesn't really matter does it?.......but can look odd when side lights/day time running lights/spot or fog lights are of a different 'colour'.I see you're a massive fan of 6000k / cool white LEDs then?
I have LEDs throughout my house, and as the bulbs are cheap I experimented with lots of different colour / temperature ranges to see what I preferred. For me personally, I've found around 5000k is good for bathrooms and kitchen, then "classic" 2.7k / 3k "yellow" lights are better elsewhere. Also you shouldn't have "blue" lights in bedrooms as apparently it mucks up your sleeping. Each to their own though. But if you wanted to know about my lounge - sadly its only an old normal LED TV, and sadly only 55 inch. It does have 10 tiny LED bulbs around it that are 5w each, so 50w total, and for this size of lounge you'd need at least two old school bulbs at 50w each each. The whole system is on a dimmer which I keep fairly low to be honest.
As for the Vette though, yeah that's the debate going on in my mind. "Yellow" is what a classic is all about, but part of me wants to try 6000k whiter lights and see what it looks like. Shame the bulbs are so expensive, and not the £5 for household bulbs, as otherwise I'd just get a set of "cool white" and give it a go anyway. Still probably will though..... or be really controversial and put "yellow" in one set and put "white" in the other set to even out the colour range
TBH LED lamps are a curse if using a lighting control system (which would primarily dim and scene-set specific multiple lighting circuits in a room or whole house)Ah, didn't know you worked in lighting control systems. Good stuff. My domestic designs are all fudgery of buying cheap bulbs or sealed lights and giving them a go to see what they look like
Hi, would you have the part number for the Kit ?? Cheers
Hi. I don't i'm afraid. i got rid of the box when i'd finished. it was an American kit though. CK will be able to supply you along with the light casings and bulbs
