My C3 restoration....

At last, a job i can do myself! Dropped the wheels of earlier to be polished to a mirror finish...not cheap but worth it I hope...
If any of you guys need and bodyshop products. Sealants. Adhesives. Corrosion products then check out my website. Wayside adhesives.com or search our eBay shop.. give us a call and ill sort a discount for any club members... for example I did these seats with our Etch primer then Satin Black after...
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the paint is all there ready to go... Now shes been flowcoated and moved over the yard to my man who will remove the engine next week. Back then to the paint shop where she'll get the final coat of primer and the engine bay satin blacked whilst its out. I think then the engine will go back in and then painted or the other way round..not sure... To keep costs down i told the guys to do this in between jobs and they seem to have been quite busy, thats why its taking longer. I want this beast up and running ASAP but im just about mature enough to be patient!!
 
Firstly I thank God I'm a positive optimistic person.... with the engine out and the car having a proper going over i now realise there is more to do than what it looked at first! Good news the engine is all fine . Bad.news gear box is pretty messed up. Added to that bushes, drive shafts, diff, arms, shocks ffs the list is endless...! I did have a plan at the beginning and a budget they can be disregarded now! Bite the bullet time and looking like she's going to be converted to manual box along with all new suspension etc... so here we go! I can invisage the end result and I am confident in my group of guys working on this project, that's what keeps me positive...so for now I am just waiting for some prices and then the final decision will be made about the gearbox...I would prefer manual 4 speed... ill keep you posted ..
 

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Mad4slalom

CCCUK Member
Hi, good progress, body looks straight. Pretty sure the wheels are polished ali then lacquered which is compromised in places. Professional strip and polish and re lacquer is the way to go. I was tempted to have some stripped and polished and not lacquered as I wanted to avoid damaging the lacquer and it degrading, I wanted to be able to polish them myself when needed. The restorers strongly advised against this saying they would water stain and I would regret the decision as I would be polishing every week or so. Good luck 👍
 

Mad4slalom

CCCUK Member
Firstly I thank God I'm a positive optimistic person.... with the engine out and the car having a proper going over i now realise there is more to do than what it looked at first! Good news the engine is all fine . Bad.news gear box is pretty messed up. Added to that bushes, drive shafts, diff, arms, shocks ffs the list is endless...! I did have a plan at the beginning and a budget they can be disregarded now! Bite the bullet time and looking like she's going to be converted to manual box along with all new suspension etc... so here we go! I can invisage the end result and I am confident in my group of guys working on this project, that's what keeps me positive...so for now I am just waiting for some prices and then the final decision will be made about the gearbox...I would prefer manual 4 speed... ill keep you posted ..
Hey , the frame looks very sound 👍 so a good starting point. Biggest plus is the wealth of friendly help and vast
knowledge on this forum, not to mention the brilliant corvette specialist trade suppliers and workshops who are at the end of the phone for advice and supply of almost any part you require, the most common ones by next day delivery.👍
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Hi, good progress, body looks straight. Pretty sure the wheels are polished ali then lacquered which is compromised in places. Professional strip and polish and re lacquer is the way to go. I was tempted to have some stripped and polished and not lacquered as I wanted to avoid damaging the lacquer and it degrading, I wanted to be able to polish them myself when needed. The restorers strongly advised against this saying they would water stain and I would regret the decision as I would be polishing every week or so. Good luck 👍
Just make sure you don't let any dogs cock their legs up at your wheels and 'mark' them.......
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Traditional chrome/ally polish like Sovol Autosol are a kiss of death to finely finished polished aluminium. Mothers billet polish is good, American Racing 'wadding' polish is also good. (A bit like the old Duraglit chrome or brass polish)
 
when i used that i didnt realise they were laquered alloys... they guys at Treadmark Ltd in Nottingham said it takes 6-8hrs per wheel to get the finish they want ! the man hours going into this beast are seriously stacking up...
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
Like so many resto jobs , the list just grows and grows and so do the bills :eek: But it will be fantastic when it`s finished :)
 
Well the engine and gearbox were out so it seemed logical to go a stage further. After a big talk with my guys this afternoon I've now gone all in on this restoration. The chassis is getting shot blasted and then powder coated gloss back. Then whilst the body is off the arches will be raptor coated then the whole shell including engine bay etc will be painted the bright green... engine spec has been increased a little, 4 speed box and full ebc brakes and braided pipes all round... oh the list goes on with then end result being a top class C3. Not quite the plan at the start but hey you only live once!
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
At least the chassis looks sound as far as I can tell from photos . Personally not a great fan of powder coat finish you mentioned in previous post . All very pretty for a trailer queen show car but not very durable long term for rust prevention . Buts that`s just my opinion :cautious:
Can speak with some experience though . I had a 1995 Marcos Mantara V8 that had a powder coated space frame as per factory standard finish . Over time it lifted and peeled and rust travelled far and wide under the coating but was largely hidden from view until you delved deeper . Be sure to get the cavities of the chassis rust proofed what ever you choose .
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
I'm always concerned about what corrosion is inside body cavities and structural chassis members. All the resto' seen major on restoring/repairing/replacing corroded steel that is visible externally - what about what goes in 'inside' - even the very best OEM rust prevention and later restoration work is unlike to prevent damage from corrosion that has started 'internally' - how would one know? - other than by cutting the member open!
 
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