Throttle cable routing.

Mad4slalom

CCCUK Member
Hi again, my throttle cable seems to come out of the bulkhead, does a sharp right hand turn then sharp left around the vertical chrome shielding. I dont think this is helping smooth throttle application at low revs. How are yours routed? πŸ‘835DBFA9-6E92-427B-BC64-51F2AB97D01E.jpeg
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Its often a probelm when changing from a Rochester to Holley. The OEM cable is marginal in length and with a Holley and OEM brackets can (unless very carefully adjusted) not actually open the secondaries fully.........perhaps its just a big block thing?
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
Its often a probelm when changing from a Rochester to Holley. The OEM cable is marginal in length and with a Holley and OEM brackets can (unless very carefully adjusted) not actually open the secondaries fully.........perhaps its just a big block thing?
Yes, I ditched the stock cable and bracket when converting to a Holley. Various snags like wrong end fitting, length and no adjustability. I’m thinking I should fit a second return spring for safety, just in case the single one snaps?
 

Mad4slalom

CCCUK Member
Its often a probelm when changing from a Rochester to Holley. The OEM cable is marginal in length and with a Holley and OEM brackets can (unless very carefully adjusted) not actually open the secondaries fully.........perhaps its just a big block thing?
Thanks for thst , mine almost looks the opposite and could do with being a tad shorter , may try to re route through the shielding bracket rather than around it. πŸ‘
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Its often a probelm when changing from a Rochester to Holley. The OEM cable is marginal in length and with a Holley and OEM brackets can (unless very carefully adjusted) not actually open the secondaries fully.........perhaps its just a big block thing?

What sort of throttle cable do you use?
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
I use a stock throttle cable - linked with an aftermarket billet ally bracket. This allows a better angled 'pull' - however it sits higher than stock bracketing and stock drop-base air filter bottom won't fit........so I'm using an aftermarket shallower base with thinner air filter element (and air filter top to make-up for the lost CFM)..........bet you wished you never asked.......I'll take a couple of photos later to explain better.....
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Hopefully these images may help - needed to use 'thinner' air filter element to make up for 'shallower' drop base. Using billet throttle bracket the operating angle of the cable (although it looks too high in the image) is actually good - on part throttle cable lines-up well with throttle bellcrank.
 

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Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
I use a stock throttle cable - linked with an aftermarket billet ally bracket. This allows a better angled 'pull' - however it sits higher than stock bracketing and stock drop-base air filter bottom won't fit........so I'm using an aftermarket shallower base with thinner air filter element (and air filter top to make-up for the lost CFM)..........bet you wished you never asked.......I'll take a couple of photos later to explain better.....
That bracket looks expensive!
Re your shallower air filter. Theres a YouTube video where they were testing different filter types, no filter, trumpets etc. In one of the tests they had an element filter and top filter as you (and I) have and they found a slight bhp improvement by actually taping up the element filter, just leaving the top filter to draw air. It was creating a kind of tunnel ram effect. None of the filters or no filter made much difference - three or four hp from what I recall.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
That bracket looks expensive!
Re your shallower air filter. Theres a YouTube video where they were testing different filter types, no filter, trumpets etc. In one of the tests they had an element filter and top filter as you (and I) have and they found a slight bhp improvement by actually taping up the element filter, just leaving the top filter to draw air. It was creating a kind of tunnel ram effect. None of the filters or no filter made much difference - three or four hp from what I recall.
Interesting comment Andy. I think if ones was to take a 'slice' image of the carb/filter/drop base over the centre of the carb. Reckon we'd be surprised about the torturous route the incoming air has to take......
 

Mad4slalom

CCCUK Member
I use a stock throttle cable - linked with an aftermarket billet ally bracket. This allows a better angled 'pull' - however it sits higher than stock bracketing and stock drop-base air filter bottom won't fit........so I'm using an aftermarket shallower base with thinner air filter element (and air filter top to make-up for the lost CFM)..........bet you wished you never asked.......I'll take a couple of photos later to explain better.....
Thanks , would be handyπŸ‘
 

stealthyflatfish

Well-known user
Yes, I ditched the stock cable and bracket when converting to a Holley. Various snags like wrong end fitting, length and no adjustability. I’m thinking I should fit a second return spring for safety, just in case the single one snaps?
Forrest, you defo need at least two return springs on the carb, think I run Three lightweights on mine just in case, traveling down a dual carriageway with a single busted spring would definitely require a change of underwear.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK regional rep
You have set me worrying about fitting an extra return spring on my Holley Double Pumper . I only possess two pairs of underpants ! :(
 

CaptainK

CCCUK Member
I only have one spring on my Edelbrock throttle. I installed a heat insulator gasket under my Edelbrock carb, and at the time I didn't realise it would affect the throttle cable position. Assembled it all and took it out for a drive. Got to the end of the road and realised that the throttle wasn't returning fully to idle - it was holding around 2500 rpm instead. Bugger. So had to turn around and go home using just my left foot on the clutch as at the time didn't know if using throttle would make it stick at a higher RPM.

Got home and "adjusted" the spring with a set of pliers and all good now :)
 
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