Must be the norm then , may get it a bit straighter by going the othr side of the shieldingMine is pretty much the same and have had no problems .
Yes, I ditched the stock cable and bracket when converting to a Holley. Various snags like wrong end fitting, length and no adjustability. Iβm thinking I should fit a second return spring for safety, just in case the single one snaps?Its often a probelm when changing from a Rochester to Holley. The OEM cable is marginal in length and with a Holley and OEM brackets can (unless very carefully adjusted) not actually open the secondaries fully.........perhaps its just a big block thing?
Thanks for thst , mine almost looks the opposite and could do with being a tad shorter , may try to re route through the shielding bracket rather than around it.Its often a probelm when changing from a Rochester to Holley. The OEM cable is marginal in length and with a Holley and OEM brackets can (unless very carefully adjusted) not actually open the secondaries fully.........perhaps its just a big block thing?
Its often a probelm when changing from a Rochester to Holley. The OEM cable is marginal in length and with a Holley and OEM brackets can (unless very carefully adjusted) not actually open the secondaries fully.........perhaps its just a big block thing?
That bracket looks expensive!I use a stock throttle cable - linked with an aftermarket billet ally bracket. This allows a better angled 'pull' - however it sits higher than stock bracketing and stock drop-base air filter bottom won't fit........so I'm using an aftermarket shallower base with thinner air filter element (and air filter top to make-up for the lost CFM)..........bet you wished you never asked.......I'll take a couple of photos later to explain better.....
Interesting comment Andy. I think if ones was to take a 'slice' image of the carb/filter/drop base over the centre of the carb. Reckon we'd be surprised about the torturous route the incoming air has to take......That bracket looks expensive!
Re your shallower air filter. Theres a YouTube video where they were testing different filter types, no filter, trumpets etc. In one of the tests they had an element filter and top filter as you (and I) have and they found a slight bhp improvement by actually taping up the element filter, just leaving the top filter to draw air. It was creating a kind of tunnel ram effect. None of the filters or no filter made much difference - three or four hp from what I recall.
Thanks , would be handyI use a stock throttle cable - linked with an aftermarket billet ally bracket. This allows a better angled 'pull' - however it sits higher than stock bracketing and stock drop-base air filter bottom won't fit........so I'm using an aftermarket shallower base with thinner air filter element (and air filter top to make-up for the lost CFM)..........bet you wished you never asked.......I'll take a couple of photos later to explain better.....
Yes but mine should be the other side of the shielding support bracket I think, then it would look more like yoursMine is a bit straighter but I donβt think yours is too chronic tbh.
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Forrest, you defo need at least two return springs on the carb, think I run Three lightweights on mine just in case, traveling down a dual carriageway with a single busted spring would definitely require a change of underwear.Yes, I ditched the stock cable and bracket when converting to a Holley. Various snags like wrong end fitting, length and no adjustability. Iβm thinking I should fit a second return spring for safety, just in case the single one snaps?