C5 died

[teamzr1]

When key on, does the fuel gauge show the correct amount of gas in the 2 tanks ?

The PCM has two 80 pin wiring connectors, on the PCM it is labeled RED for one and BLUE for the other
Focus on pin 9 of the RED connector as that is the control wire to the fuel pump relay

IF that relay has 5 pins, then the relay socket of fuse panel is wired this way and see if 85 and 86 show 12 volts for the relays coil
PiN 30 would then go to pin 9 of red connector of PCM and pin 87 would be the 12 volts to the fuel pump

With the other problems you have had, it maybe the time to get to the PCM,
Look for acid damage from battery leaking down to PCM or water damage and all that wiring and also the ground there
May have to take off both wiring connectors and closely look at both the male and female pins for damage or dirty
and spray electronics cleaner and make sure none of the pins have push backwards and not connecting

Pin	Wire Color	Function RED Connector
1	BLK/WHT	PCM Ground (Automatic Transmission Only)
2	BRN	TCC Control Solenoid (Automatic Transmission Only)
3	--	Not Used
4	PPL	AIR Solenoid Control
5	TAN/BLK	Torque Delivered
6	RED/BLK	Transmission Fluid Pressure Control Solenoid High (Automatic Transmission Only)
7	--	Not Used
8	LT BLU/WHT	Transmission Fluid Pressure Control Solenoid Low (Automatic Transmission Only)
9	DK GRN/WHT	Fuel Pump Relay Control
10	WHT	Engine Speed (Tach) Output Signal
11 - 13	--	Not Used
14	RED/BLK	A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal
15	RED	Alternator L Terminal
16	--	Not Used
17	DK GRN/WHT	A/C Request Signal (C60 only)
18	DK GRN	A/C Status Signal
19	--	Not Used
20	PPL	Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Reference Low
21	YEL	Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Signal
22-24	--	Not Used
25	TAN	IAT Sensor Signal
26	PPL	Ignition Control 1
27	RED	Ignition Control 7
28	LT BLU/WHT	Ignition Control 6
29	DK GRN/WHT	Ignition Control 4
30	--	Not Used
31	YEL	MAF Sensor Signal
32	LT GRN	MAP Sensor Signal
33	DK BLU	Engine Cooling Fan Relay 2 and 3 Control
34	DK GRN/WHT	EVAP Canister Purge Valve Control
35	--	Not Used
36	BRN	AIR Pump Relay Control
37-38	--	Not Used
39	RED	Camshaft Position Sensor B+ Supply
40	BLK/WHT	PCM Ground
41	--	Not Used
42	TAN/BLK	TCC Enable Circuit (Automatic Transmission Only)
43	DK GRN/WHT	A/C Clutch Relay Control
44	LT GRN	Reverse Inhibit Solenoid Control
45	WHT	EVAP Canister Vent Valve Control
46	BRN/WHT	Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control
47	WHT or YEL/BLK	1 to 4 Up-shift Lamp Control or Transmission Shift Solenoid B
48	LT GRN	Transmission Shift Solenoid A
49	--	Not Used
50	DK GRN/WHT	Vehicle Speed Output Circuit
51	YEL/BLK	Transmission Temperature Sensor Signal
52	GRY	Alternator F Terminal
53	--	Not Used
54	DK BLU	Fuel Level Sensor Signal
55-56	--	Not Used
57	PPL	IAT Sensor Ground
58	TAN/WHT	Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Signal
59	--	Not Used
60	BRN	Ignition Control Reference Low Bank 1
61	BRN/WHT	Ignition Control Reference Low Bank 2
62	GRY	PRND C Input Signal (Automatic Transmission Only)
63	PNK	Transmission Range Signal A (Automatic Transmission Only)
64	DK GRN	Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal
65	--	Not Used
66	PPL/WHT	Ignition Control 8
67	RED/WHT	Ignition Control 2
68	DK GRN	Ignition Control 5
69	LT BLU	Ignition Control 3
70-72	--	Not Used
73	LT BLU	Fuel Level Sensor Signal (Secondary)
74-80	--	Not Used

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

So this mornings atempt
Fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail is 58 psi or very close
If the pump was not working . Would it have that much pressure in the rail seeing as I had relived the pressure previously ?
Can the fuel line get air locked ?
When I test pin 9 should it be on the plug or on the pcm if it’s the pcm I take it the blue plug should still be connected ?
I read that the fuel pump only fires for a couple of seconds when key is turned on do I need to test then ? Or will it be live for longer
This is made more awkward as the battery was on charge for a week and only turned the car over a couple of times . I have another battery that is on charge and will have another look in the morning

 

[teamzr1]

Generally, after turning the running engine off, at that time there is around 58 PSI and would take a day or so before total bleeding down
The fact you're getting the correct fuel pressure than that relay and the command must be good

You will never get the engine running very well at all as the controllers must get at least 12.5 volts AND battery having good cells
to handle the current load, so until putting in a good known battery, anything you see right now is useless as tits on a bull.

There could be proper fuel pressure BUT no gas flow volume
Could be the regulator/filter is clogged
So after getting better battery, if same problem, check again fuel rail pressure, if 58 PSI than change the regulator/filter and
test from that

It bolts to the frame on left rear, has 3 fuel lines, all quick connects, you need a tool to release the holding fitting to get hoses
off and then they simply push on and lock

Clearly, it is that pin of PCM (red side) that outputs to the coil of fuel relay
But again if getting the 58 PSI than that output should be fine

But if testing that output, either use a thin needle to Pierce wire to get to the copper for one side of the meter, the other to ground
and while you watch that have someone turn key on, engine off and watch for a voltage change

 

[teamzr1]

Again as I showed before
The PCM (PIN 9 of RED connector) is the B+ (voltage) side of the relay's coil and ground to other side of coil

Then the switched circuit is from that fuse 13 to normally open contact of relay
When PCM commands the coil then contacts go to closed and sends that voltage of gray wire (A12) to the left fuel pump

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

new battery ordered and fuel filter should be here before weekend

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

New filter fitted
Good pressure on fuel rail
New plugs fitted
New plug leads should be here this week then with new battery let’s see if it will start

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

So as above new fuel filter
New plugs and leads
New battery
Good fuel pressure at fuel rail
Good spark
Good battery
Turns over like a champ
Still it won’t fire
Could spark and fuel not be in the piston at the right time ?
New ecu?
Could injectors be not firing?

 

[Oneball]

If there was fuel in the cylinders and a spark (even in the wrong order) you would get a pop or bang. If you haven’t got that and you’ve got a spark at the plugs then it sounds like no fuel.

Can you smell fuel in the exhaust are the plugs wet with fuel? If not then it seems logical the injectors aren’t firing.
Have you got a multimeter? With the ignition on you should have 12v at the injector.

Have you checked the fuses? 18 & 21 according to this Underhood Fuse Box Diagram - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

Just checked
All fuses ok
No smell of fuel
Getting 10 v at injectors

 

[teamzr1]

10 volts is too low for the controllers to function
Where did you measure that at ?

Fuel injectors get 12.5 volts directly from the fused circuit
The other wire of injectors is NOT ground, so do not use that to measure voltage
That wire is coming from the PCM and is commanding the injectors pulse width ON time

Do you have a meter that also has a D/C amp clamp type ?
If not and cannot borrow one, you can buy these local or like Amazon for about $40
You want one that does at least D/C, not only A/C) though you can buy models that do both

https://www.amazon.com/MESTEK-Auto-...id=1675996509&sprefix=D/C,aps,226&sr=8-7&th=1

if not sure, fuel injectors are getting commanded on and proper fuel rail pressure
when trying to start and clamp around the black (or dark wire)

Let's say correct fuel rail pressure is 60 PSI
For every 1 amp draw is about 10 PSI,
so if correct pressure than should see about 6 amp draw

This would be solved easy if using and OBD-II scanner
Obtain a noid light, most auto parts stores sell them
They are made to plug into the wiring connector of a injector and IF the PCM is commanding the injector the light flashes

You need to check if there is any error codes, either with a code reader, scanner or via the DIC
A problem with the column lock will prevent no firing of the injectors.

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

I have this tester but no idea how to use it
When I put it across battery ( 3 different ones )it says 19 v and that cannot be right

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

Noid lights like these ?

 

[teamzr1]

Noid lights like these ?

Yes,
simple 12 volts LED that if the PCM is commanding injectors than the light will flash as if commands injectors to flow or not

You could just use one of them at a time if choosing

 

[teamzr1]

I have this tester but no idea how to use it
When I put it across battery ( 3 different ones )it says 19 v and that cannot be right

Cannot tell for sure but that multi meter looks like it only does A/C amp clamp probe and not also D/C as newer ones like I show does
If still have the user's manual it would tell if it does A/C, D/C or both

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

Ok
Tested the injector plug
13v at the battery
13v at the injector plug

 

[teamzr1]

Being you stated the DIC does not work, then we are blind as what it would be reporting
such as a column lock problem and that would prevent PCM commanding fuel injectors

with key on, engine off, does the steering wheel turn ?

If you cannot find a noid light locally, you might try with your meter set for D/C voltage connecting the two probes
connected to the 2 wiring connector pins taken off one injector
While watching the meter, have some crank engine, and you watch the meter to see if voltage reading changes

Really need to see why DIC does not work ?
Possible dimmer switch is set too far dim
Push the round push switch on left side of dash and then turn the dimmer to full on and see if anything shows up on DIC

Check the 2 fuses I show in the fuse panel in the cubbyhole on passenger floor to see if those fuses are good and 12 volts to each side of fuse
Top of fuse has 2 small metal tits, can test for voltage of both sides that way

Here I detailed all fuses and relays

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

Fuses are both ok and 12 v on both side
Steering lock is free with ignition on but also with ignition off and key removed

 

[FIVE RED]

Team zr1 is being amazingly helpful as always with his very detailed attempts to help resolve your issue with the C5. My apologies if you've already tried this very basic test but have you taken plugs out & connected them to their HT leads to see if there's a spark when the engine is turned over?

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

Yes I have spark
I think we might have narrowed it down to injectors not firing
The dic and ODB-ll scanner are not working this might be related or not
The steering lock is not working and this might have something to do with it
And yes Team zr1 has been a life saver can’t thank him enough

 

[Choosing a name is hard]

It must just be me
Tonight went out to put the battery tender on the car but thought I would do a bit of steering wheel wobbling and key in and out off and on to see if the steering lock would come on . When I put the key in I can hear a electrical sound like a small motor kicking in . The same when I remove it . The steering lock never came on . When I finished and closed all the doors and locked it all the interior lights stayed on . The footwell lights the rear view mirror lights (3) the dash lights and the trunk lights .I had to disconnect the battery to make them go out . It would explained the battery being dead flat a while ago .